My Bali Holidays - May 2019 : Visit to Pura Tirtha Empul Temple

The day began with visits to a boutique centre, a wood carving centre, U C Silver Gold (jewellery making place),  coffee plantations, Kintamani to view Mt. Batur (an active volcanic mountain) and Lake Batur from Sari Restaurant's terrace. Except for viewing Mt. Batur, rest of the places visited were more of the shopping destinations than the places of the art and the craft. Nonetheless,  many tourists loved shopping in these places.

  Boutique artists at work in one of the Boutique centres we visited near Ubud.

 

An unusual façade of U C Silver Gold Jewellery works near Ubud.

 

Wood carving work in progress, Ubud.

 

 Kintamani was somewhat interesting place we visited during the pre-lunch period where we had the best view of Mt. Batur and the adjoining Lake Batur from the terrace of Sari Restaurant. Some tourists plan early morning trek to Mt. Batur to view the sunrise. The trek from the nearest road head takes about 2 hours to reach the top. We had not planned to undertake this trek. In the hindsight, I could have skipped the shopping visits  and instead opted for the trek. At the end of the trek, I could have joined our folks at Kintamani.

Mt. Batur viewpoint area is largely dominated by the swarm of the tourists. Naturally, there would be many local persons who will be relentlessly trying to sell local mementos to the tourists. Some would even accept Indian rupees. We were already forewarned not to buy anything from the roadside sellers as most of the items would not only be overcharged but also be of low quality.

View of Mt. Batur and the adjoining Batur Lake from the terrace of Sari Restaurant, Kintamani.

 

For me, the most eagerly waited trip of the day was a visit to Pura Tirtha Empul, the holy spring water temple (In Balinese language, Pura=Temple, Tirtha=Holy Water, Empul=Spring). This is one of the most visited water temples of Bali. There is a connection between water temples of Bali with its irrigation system for the cultivation of rice on the terraced fields. Each of the water temples coordinate the irrigation for the group of subaks (rice farmers' group) within the  controlling area of the water temples. So Balinese irrigation system is the combination of the rationale management of water with spiritual dimension.

 

Pura Tirtha Empul temple is located 16 kms from Ubud. The temple was constructed 960 AD.

A stone notice board just before the bathing poo displays 'dos and donts' inside the temple.

In line with most of the Balinese Hindu temples, Pura Tirtha Empul temple complex has three main sections -  the front courtyard, the outer or secondary courtyard and the inner courtyard. Before entering the front section, tourists and devotees - both ladies and gents -  have to put around the waist a sarong (a printed lungi like cloth) which is available at the entrance. However, there is no need to remove the footwear in the front and outer courtyrds of the temple. Only devotees who wish to perform pujas can enter the inner courtyard with proper dress code and without footwear. The priest will perform the pujas on behalf of the devotees. Unlike temples in India, Bali Hindu temples are open air space of worship. Any one can see the performance of pujas by priest from the outer/secondary courtyard.

The Candi Banter (The split gateway)  to enter Pura Tirtha Empul temple. The split gateway is the entry into the front courtyard of the temple. Candi Banter is the most common sight in Bali as gates to the residential colonies as well.

 

A garden with stone statues in the front courtyard (Nista Mandala) of Pura Tirtha Empul temple. In the background is former President Sukarno's palace which has now been converted into VIP guest house.

 

Tourists with sarong on their waist are in the 'Madya Mandala' (outer courtyard) of the temple. The open roofed structures are known as pavilions for the supporting activities of the temple. The railing on the right is the boundary between outer courtyard and the inner courtyard.

 

In the inner courtyard, a priest is performing puja on behalf of devotees sitting on the ground.

 

The temple has a rectangular pond with spring water flow which is located in the inner courtyard. The water from the pond passed through many water spouts in the bathing pool. I have counted at least 12 water sprouts but it may be more. Devotees start dipping their heads from the first sprout on the left and continue bathing under each sprout sequentially until they have taken bath under all the sprouts. Balinese Hindu believe that taking bath under each of the water spout purify their soul and the water in the pool has some curative properties. 

The rectangular-shaped holy pond in the outer courtyard of the temple. The pond is fed by the underground springs. Holy water from this pond is channelled to bathing pool through spouts.

 



Devotees taking bath under the sprouts in the  holy spring water pool. Mostly the Balinese Hindu would take the holy bath as they believe that holy bath would purify their souls.

 

The myth behind the curative and purifying spring water is the Balinese ruler, Mayadanawa who had defied the influence of Hinduism and denied his subjects right to religious prayers and practices. This angered the gods, and in a campaign, god Indra invaded Mayadanawa and made him and his troops run for cover. It was here that through his magical powers Mayadanawa created a poisoned spring from which Indra’s exhausted troops drank and succumbed. Indra noticed the fall of his troops, and soon thrust his staff into the ground where a holy purifying spring spurted out, to cure the troops and to even bring some of them back to life. This legend became the background to the holy spring of Tirtha Empul.

Intricately painted mini towers inside the inner courtyard.

 

Stone carved statues adorn  one of the pavilions in the outer courtyard.

 

One of the well decorated pavilions in the outer courtyard.

 

We spent about one hour in the temple complex. I still felt that I had missed some part of the temple complex. Since it was getting dark and we had to reach Kuta (52 kms from the temple), we bid good bye to Pura Tirtha Empul temple.  A drive of about 90 minutes from the temple took us to Kuta which would be our base for the next 4 days to explore the nearby tourist spots.

 

All pictures by the author.