Rambling in Uttarkashi District: Part-5 - Visit to Mukhba Village, the Winter Abode of Maa Ganga

October 13, 2022

We woke up early and had our morning tea. The weather was superfine with complete blue sky. The snow-clad mountains looked more splendid than the previous day with the background of dark blue sky. This prompted us to take a walk and shoot the snow-clad mountains. 

Morning view from Harsil market.

Morning view of Mt. Harsil Horns from the garden of our homestay.

We had scheduled a walk to Mukhba village from Harsil (3 kms) yesterday afternoon. However, the rains spoiled our planned walk and we decided to skip the visit. Today, after the breakfast, we had scheduled to return to Uttarkashi on our back home journey via Dehradun. It was during the breakfast that we thought of requesting the driver of our hired taxi to drive first to Mukhba village for a quick visit and then proceed to Uttarkashi. The driver agreed. 

Our homestay was located on Harsil-Mukhba road and it was a 3-km journey parallel to Gangotri road with Bhagirathi River flowing on the right side. Within 10 minutes, we reached Mukhba village at around 10 a.m. The staircase leading to Maa Ganga temple complex was on the left side of the road itself.

Mukhba road (left), an unnamed peak in the background and Bhagirathi River in the foreground.

Way to Maa Ganga temple, on the Mukhba road, Mukhba. 

Photo by K Srinivasan.

The moment we reached Maa Ganga temple complex after climbing the stairs-cum ramp, we realised that this was not the place for a quick visit but for an easy pace visit. From the temple premises, we got a clear view of snow-clad mountains with some prominent peaks like Mt. Srikantha (6135m) and some unknown peaks. 

Mt. Srikantha (6135m) in the middle shot from Mukhba village. In the foreground is Uttarkashi-Gangotri Road going towards left to Gangotri via Dharali village.

Zoomed shot of Mt. Srikantha

An unknown peak seen from Maa Ganga temple complex in Mukhba village.

Mukhba village is predominantly the home of Semwal brahmin family, a priestly class. The priests of the Gangotri temple hail from Semwal brahmin settled in Mukhba village. For the very reason, they are also the priests of Maa Ganga temple in Mukhba. This temple is the winter seat for the idol of Maa Ganga in Gangotri which is brought here after the closer of Gangotri temple in around Diwali. The idol is brought to Mukhba in procession from Gangotri. On the way, the idol is kept overnight in Markendeya temple, on the banks of Bhagirathi River. On the next day, the idol is brought to Mukhba Maa Ganga temple which will be Her winter abode until Akshya Tirthya day (sometime in early May) when the idol would be taken to Gangotri in procession.

The old wooden Maa Ganga temple with newly constructed annex in Mukhba village.

The new Maa Ganga temple in Mukhba village is almost a replica of Gangotri temple.

The new and old Maa Ganga temple with the background of snow peaks. In this picture I am talking to a person from Semwal family about the temple and village. Photo by K. Srinivasan.

An artistically carved wooden house annexed to old Maa Ganga temple.

Me and KS in front of new Maa Ganga temple.

Most of the houses in Mukhba village is made of Deodhar wood with some artistic carvings. But some of them have become very old and are in depleted conditions. A few houses seem to have been abandoned. These houses actually represent the Garhwali heritage. They look elegant even in depleted conditions.

Mukhba village with wooden houses. The blue sky, the green pine trees on the upper part and the appearance of fall colours on some trees in the middle, lend a colourful decor to the village.

A abandoned wooden building. Probably, it is now being used as a store house.

A wooden house in upper Mukhba village.

View of Dharali village with Mt. Srikantha in the background and Bhagirathi River in foreground.

View of snow-clad mountains with Bhagirathi River from Jaspur village on our way back to Uttarkashi.

We spend about 30 minutes in around Mukhba temple and really felt that if we had the time, we could have strolled in the village. Probably, we would have got some vintage points to shoot the sceneries beside some more pictures in the village. For instance, if we have walked to the upper part of the village, we would have got the view of Maa Ganga temple with beautiful landscape and with the background of full snow-clad mountains. Also, we miss to visit Markendeya temple, 1-km walk from the village with its picturesque location on the banks of Bhagirathi River. The village is also the starting point for day treks like 2-km Thui Top trek, 5-km Nangani Taal trek and 8-km Sattal trek. The village is also the starting point for 12-km 2-day Kyarkoti Bugyal trek.

We commenced our return road journey to Uttarkashi from Mukhba at around 10:30 a.m. and reached Uttarkashi for lunch at Eagle's Nest. We stayed overnight here. Post-lunch, Uttarkashi experienced heavy rains which lasted till late evening.  In the next day, after breakfast, we proceeded to Dehradun in excellent weather conditions.