Tuesday, October 18, 2022

Ramblings in Uttarkashi District: Part-1: Trek to Nachiketa Taal

My last visit to the Himalayan region was in September 2017 when I along with K. Srinivasan (KS), my co-trekker completed Satopanth Taal trek in the Badrinath region. We had planned the Brahmatal Trek in October 2018. However, just a fortnight before the start of the trek, I was down with dengue and doctor advised me not to undertake strenuous trek for 3 months. The trek was postponed to September 2019. However, a few days before the scheduled start of the trek, KS lost his mother and he had to be away for about a fortnight. Next, we planned Mardi Himal trek in Annapurna region of Nepal in April 2020. However, with the outbreak of Covid-19, we had to cancel the trek. In short, I had not been to the Himalayan region for nearly 5-years though KS did a couple of high-altitude treks in Nepal in 2021-22. 

With a five-year hiatus, considering my age (76), I was not sure as to whether I will be physically fit to undertake even a short duration trek in the Himalayan region. Sometime in May 2022 when the Covid risk had considerably reduced, I suggested to KS that we can plan a trip to Uttarkashi-Harsil-Gangotri route for a week or so and do a couple of day-treks besides walking tours to villages in around Harsil like Bagori, Mukhba, Dharali etc. He agreed but the dates were not fixed. Finally, we found a mutually convenient period during the first fortnight of October 2022. Accordingly, a tentative itinerary was prepared to cover the day-treks and walking tours to villages. Tilak Soni, our Uttarkashi-based friend who runs Eagle's Nest and Cafe TFH, about 4 kms from Uttarkashi near Tekhla bridge became our host in Uttarkashi. Broadly, we had planned our trip as under:


We left our respective residences early morning under heavy rains to catch early morning flights from CSIA-T.2. Our flight took off with a delay of 30 minutes due to bunching of take-offs and landings of the flights at CSIA. We landed Dehradun's Jolly Grant airport at around 09:15 hours. We took a pre-paid taxi from the airport for Uttarkashi drop (Rs.6000/-). By 10 am, we were on the road driving on the Dehradun-Rishikesh highway. The weather was cloudy which turned into foggy between Narendra Nagar and a little short of Chamba. The road up to Chamba was in excellent conditions. After a few kms of drive from Chamba and up to Darasu Bend, the road turned bad as road widening work was going on to make the road to two-lane. Also, there were many land-slide zones on the way. The road condition became once again excellent from Darasu Bend to Uttarkashi except a few bad patches around Chiliyasaur town due to land-slide zones. We reached Eagle's Nest by 15:45 hours. This was to be our abode for the next 2 days as well as for a day on our return from Harsil. (More about Eagle's Nest in my separate Blog). In the evening, we spent some time at the shore of Bhagirathi River.

The steel arch bridge over Tehri Lake connecting the main town, Chiliyasaur with Dichali and Gamari villages. Clicked from the road near Chiliyasaur on the way to Uttarkashi.


The large balcony of Eagle's Nest, Uttarkashi on the banks of Bhagirathi River.


On the shore of Bhagirathi River near Eagle's Nest.


Trek to Nachiketa Taal - 09/10/2022 (3+3+1 kms)

We got up around 06:30 hours to an excellent weather condition with the blue sky. After freshening up, we went for a walk on the Uttarkashi-Kedarnath by-pass road. We had morning tea in a tea stall located on a corner where Tekhla bridge over Bhagirathi River starts. By the time, we returned to Eagle's Nest, Tilak ji was already in the kitchen to prepare Aloo-Parathas and Idlis as breakfast for us as also as part of a packed lunch for the trek. 

After breakfast with coffee, we started at around 09:30 hours for Chaurangi Khal which is about 28 kms from Uttarkashi on Kedarnath Road. Tilak ji had already arranged a Mahindra Maxx (Rs.1800/-) to take us to Chaurangi Khal which will wait to bring us back to Eagle's Nest after the completion of our trek. After about 45 minutes ride, we reached Chaurangi Khal. After paying the entry-fee of Rs,10/- per head, the 3-km trek started through the dense forest. There were 2-3 local groups who were also on this trek. Actually, they had planned to trek Dayara Bugyal from Barsu. However, forest authorities did not allow them to trek following the forecast of heavy rains in this region.
Road to Chaurangi Khal


Naag Devta temple at Chaurangi Khal


Forest check-post from where the trek starts after paying the entry fee.


The trail is of about 3 kms through dense forest. It is an easy path with gradual ascends. The soil is very smooth which may become slippery in the rainy season. There is nothing on the way until one reach Nachiketa Taal. So, the trekkers must carry drinking water with them. After the last climb on the trek, there is a gradual descend of about 500m to reach Nachiketa Taal.

The initial trek path.


The density of forest can be gauged by this picture.


View of two bugyals, one in the middle and another one on the top from the trek.


Wildflowers on the trek route.


On the final phase of the climb before descending to reach Nachiketa Taal


It took us about 1:30 hours to reach Nachiketa Taal in a bright sunshine. Being surrounded by dense forest, large numbers of dead leaves fall into the lake water and settle in the basement of the lake. Hence, the water in the lake looks somewhat muddy. Also, there are a large of fish population in the lake and their movements, especially at the shores, make the water muddy. We took a parikrama (round) of the lake which was about 1 km of circumference. There is a tea stall with some ready to eat dry food. A sadhu also stays in the vicinity of the lake. There is also a temple dedicated to Lord Yama, probably in the cave but entrance was barricaded.

The first view of the Nachiketa Taal once on a descend.


Nachiketa Taal while on parikrama (taking round).


I am on the edge of the Nachiketa Taal while on parikrama.


Fishes in Nachiketa Taal.


Uttarkashi town with Bhagirathi River clicked from Chaurangi Khal-Uttarkashi Road.


After a cup of tea from a stall at Nachiketa Taal, we completed our parikrama and started the return trek which took us about one hour to reach Chaurangi Khal. In between, we had on the way lunch with Aloo-Parathas with Pickles and Mint Chatney which we had carried from Eagle's Nest. We returned to our base at Eagle's Nest by 15:30 hours. I was more than satisfied with by physical fitness while doing Nachiketa Taal trek which gave me confidence to undertake two more day-treks about which I will cover in separate Blogs.


 

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