Eagle's Nest - A Home Away from Home

K. Srinivasan and I stayed with our friend, Tilak Soni for 3 nights in his house which he has named as 'Eagle's Nest' during our recent one-week sojourn in Uttarkashi-Harsil-Gangotri circuit involving three day-treks and three village walks. The house is located in Mando village, 4 kms from Uttarkashi town on Kedarnath road.  Sitting in an open porch outside our room and watching the gentle flow of emerald-colour water of Bhagirathi River amidst the surrounding mountains covered with dense forest gave us an opulence feel. Tilak told us that he had often seen deers roaming on the top of the hills and occasionally leopards also. The guests in 'Eagle's Nest' do not need a swimming pool as they can have more or less the same feel in Bhagirathi River with its somewhat calm flow and the shallow water by walking a few steps. 

Eagle's Nest on the right, Bhagirathi River on the left.

View of Bhagirathi River from the open porch of Eagle's Nest. On the left is Kedarnath Road.

This was our room during our stay in 'Eagle's Nest'.

The open porch outside our room to view Bhagirathi River while sipping coffee.

I have known Tilak Soni for the last 14 years - first through an India related travel portal where we both were members. Sometime in June 2011, K. Srinivasan (KS), my trekking partner and I, on a short break in Delhi on our way to Joshimath for Changbang Base Camp trek, had personally met Tilak for the first time. In May 2015, on our completion of Dodital-Darwa Top-Dayara Bugyal round trek, we had returned to Uttarkashi. When Tilak came to know about our presence in Uttarkashi, he personally came to pick up us from our hotel room and took us to the then rental house about 3 kms further toward Gangotri side. At that time, he had told us that in our next visit to Uttarkashi, we should stay in 'Eagle's Nest' as his guests. That occasion came recently after a gap of 7 years. 

Me and K. Srinivasan at 'Eagle's Nest' on May 31, 2015, after our return from Dodital-Darwa Top-Dayara Bugyal round trek.

When we planned for our ramblings in Uttarkashi district scheduled in October 2022, I apprised Tilak through e-mail with our schedule of visit to Uttarkashi and our plan to stay with him. He immediately confirmed by replying that he has noted the dates in his diary.

With three days' stay in his house, the opportunity for inter-actions with Tilak was much more than our casual meets earlier. I came to know many things about him - especially about his transformation from a savvy urban man from Delhi to a rugged hillman. Tilak left his lucrative corporate job in Delhi and decided to settle down in Uttarkashi in 2010. His was an interesting story and I felt that I should write about him, about his 'Eagle's Nest' and his venture, 'Cafe TFH'. 

 

Cafe TFH - The Food Habit on Kedarnath Road. The gate near the Cafe leads to 'Eagle's Nest'. The bus on the left is on Gangotri Road.

Tilak Soni in the kitchen preparing the herbal tea for us in the morning. The dining room can be seen through service area from the kitchen. 

View from Cafe TFH of Bhagirathi River.

Tilak's family belongs to Nawalgarh in Shekhawati region of Rajasthan. However, they have been staying in Delhi for over three decades. When he got a corporate job in Delhi, Tilak used to ride on his motorcycle (bike) to reach office. Over a period of time, biking became his passion. He started weekend travelling on his bike along with his close friends. In one of such group travels, he rode his bike from Delhi to Gangotri sometime in 2002. He liked the hill atmosphere so much that he made the bike ride on Gangotri road an annual feature. During such bike-rides, he had inter-acted with some sadhus and mystique men Slowly, he was drawn to spirituality. He enjoyed the tranquility in the mountains. He felt that he was more inclined towards spending life on the mountain settings than the urban concrete jungles. So, after giving much thought over it, in 2010, he decided to resign from his corporate job, leave Delhi for good and shift to Uttarkashi to be in the company of Bhagirathi River and Vishwanath temple.

In the initial years, Tilak stayed in a rented house, about 3 kms from Uttarkashi towards Gangotri side. Having left the job, he had to find some vocation in Uttarkashi which would not only keep him busy but also earn some income for the sustenance. He decided to take up the vocation for which his expertise was proven - organising mountain bike ridings (both motorcycles and bicycles), trekking expeditions, hiking to unexplored places and village walks. During this period, Tilak also completed the Basic Mountaineering Course Certification Course from Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi in 'A' Grade.   With this, he was now ready to start his vocation for which he set up 'Where Eagles Dares' to undertake outdoor adventure activities.  He said that he was pioneer in organising the first snow-biking from Uttarkashi to Gangotri. Since then, it has become an annual event. He had also participated in season's opening of the treks in the Gangotri region like Kedartal, Tapovan etc. Among his many trekking expeditions, Tilak successfully completed Kalindi Khal Pass (5940m) which joins Gangotri region with Badrinath.

When Uttarakhand Government opened the 24-km stretch of Bhaironghati-Nelong road for Indian civilians for driving trip, Tilak along with 5 other cars were the first civilians to travel. Another feather in Tilak's cap was his concerted efforts with the concerned departments of Uttarakhand Government (such as Forest, Tourism, Public Works) to repair the damaged wooden stairs of Gartang Gali and open to Indian tourists to trek. His efforts bore fruits and in August 2021, the 2-km Gartang Gali trek was open for Indians with some restrictions. He is now pursuing with the same departments to extend the trekking coverage of Gartang Gali from the present 2 kms to 7 kms (up to a point where the trekking path meets the Bhaironghati-Nelong road). 

The idea of starting Cafe TFH in 2018 germinated from the need to serve his guests the varieties of food - Indian, Chinese, Continental etc. The menu card of the Cafe gives a good indication of his intent.  Leaving alone in Uttarkashi away from his parents made Tilak to learn cooking. Today, he has become a good chef not only to take care of his own food requirements but also of his guests and the visitors to his Cafe TFH. He can also serve food which are not listed in the menu card, for example, Sizzlers.  During our three days of stay with him, he personally cooked breakfast for us as his cook would come only around 9.00 am at that time. We had an authentic feast of South Indian dishes like Masala Dosa, Rava Dosa, Idli with filter coffee. KS had never expected that in Uttarkashi, he would get Curd-Rice with fried red chilies and curry leaves, a specialty South Indian food. The sambhar and chutney personally prepared by Tilak were testimonial to his expertise on making South Indian food. I do not think that such authentic South Indian preparations would be available elsewhere in Uttarkashi.

The dining room. One can see Bhagirathi River through windows.

The menu card.

The lounge outside the dining room of the Cafe.

As I mentioned earlier, Tilak had his 'Eagle's Nest' on a rented premises. In 2018, after opening Cafe TFH, the land behind the Cafe was bought by him. After registration, he constructed his present 'Eagle's Nest' with 3 bedrooms, one of which is for his personal use. With extra beds, six guests can be accommodated in remaining two bedrooms. However, in case of need, Tilak gives his bedroom also for the use of his guests by shifting himself in an adjoining anteroom which has a separate exit. He told me that he has no plan to construct additional rooms though there are space enough to construct two more rooms. He has a plan to construct a ramp by the side of his Cafe on the right so that guests need not use steep stairs to descend from the road to reach the rooms.

Tilak with myself (left) and K Srinivasan (right) outside his Cafe just before our departure to Dehradun.

Tilak gives first preference to his adventurous friends numbering about 9000 to use his house for overnight stay on their ways to/return from adventurous activities in the Gangotri region. His rooms are also available for those who need to stay somewhat longer time in Uttarkashi in pursuing their research works in the Gangotri region. Others can book the rooms provided they are referred to by his friends and rooms are available.  

There is no room tariff. Instead, Tilak has left to his guest-friends to donate the money as per their ability. Tilak says that to the best of his knowledge, all the guests donated the money as per their capacity. Most of his guests donated generously. The donations are used for day-to-day maintenance of the property and for adding some more facilities for the benefit of the guests. Tilak has also made available to the guests the free Wi-Fi facilities, both in rooms as well as in the Cafe. He has good collection of books in the library which the guests can use for reference.  

Tilak calls 'Eagle's Nest' as a homestay. But I would like to call it a home away from home. I have already decided that in my next visit to Uttarkashi which may be as early as next year, 'Eagle's Nest' would be my abode. At that time, it would be more of a leisure stay to have the full benefit of the culinary expertise of Tilak.  

Ramblings in Uttarkashi District: Part-2 - To Harsil and Bagori Village Walk

October 10, 2022

The morning twilight appeared in Uttarkashi around 05:30 a.m. By 06:15 am, sun rays started falling on the top of the hills. This was the time slot we used for a walk up to Tekhla bridge on Kedarnath road where we would have our first morning tea, spend some time watching the perennial flow of Bhagirathi River from the bridge and the progress of the sun rays covering the hills. We would return to our abode, have some chit-chat with our host, Tilak ji. During this period, he would suggest the breakfast menu which he would personally prepare for us as his cook will come only around 08:30 a.m.

After sumptuous breakfast of Puri-Aloo Subzi with coffee, we commenced our journey to Harsil in a sunny weather at around 09:30 am by Mahindra Maxx which was arranged by Tilak ji (Rs.2200/- for Harsil drop). The 75-km distance to Harsil was covered in about 2 hours 30 minutes with a couple of stops for some photography. The road conditions, by and large, were excellent. The road journey was a climb from an altitude of 1100m in Uttarkashi to 2620m in Harsil.

Khedi waterfalls near Maneri. It is the water discharge from the Maneri Hydroelectric Project from Maneri Dam.

The road to Sukhi Top on the way to Harsil.

Bhagirathi River on the way to Harsil.

A left diversion from Gangotri road and a further drive of about 1 km via army cantonment road took us to Harsil market. From here, it is about 200 km of walk on a paved path (only 2-wheeler can ride on this path)  to reach GMVN. We had got booking for only today as during Chardham Yatra time, GMVN rooms are booked for pilgrims using their conducted tours. For the next two days, we got booking in a homestay very close to GMVN which I will cover in a separate Blog.

As usual for GMVN (also for KMVN), this property is located in a picturesque place on the shore of Bhagirathi River. We had a grand-stand view of the River from the balcony of our cottage. There is also a staircase leading to the shore of the River for those who wish to walk on the river bed.  

We had a simple lunch of rotis with daal and vegetables in GMVN's restaurant after which we proceeded to a walking tour of Bagori village.

GMVN Rest House, Harsil - Photo by K Srinivasan.

Bhagirathi River clicked from our cottage in GMVN, Harsil.

Walking in Bagori Village

One can proceed to Bagori village either from Harsil market or GMVN which is more or less in equal distance of about 400m up to which 4-wheel vehicles can go. Thereafter, one has to walk about another 200m to reach the gate of Bagori village. We walked through Harsil market and took a right turn at the end of the market. We crossed an iron bridge built over Jalandhri River. After crossing two more narrow bridges over streams, we reached the gate of the Bagori village. Eventually, Jalandhri River and two unnamed streams joins Bhagirathi River.

Harsil and its surroundings

On a new iron bridge under construction over Jalandhri River on which 4 wheelers can drive up to the gate of Bagori village once it is opened. The iron bridge visible in the background is the old narrow bridge on which only two-wheeler can pass.

Bagori village gate.

Bagori village has an interesting history. The inhabitants of this village are mostly Jadh Bhotiyas, a semi-nomadic tribe who preferred to settle near Jadh Ganga River. They were originally from high altitude Indo-Tibetan border villages like  Nelong, Jadong etc. Most of them were cross-border traders, selling their products in Tibet for buying mineral salt, wool and sheep etc. In winter, they used to migrate to villages in lower altitudes such as villages near Uttarkashi and Dunda. After the Indo-China war in 1962, the trade with Tibet stopped. They migrated to Bagori, a familiar village for them which was on a trade route to Tibet beside being on the pilgrimage route to Gangotri. Even now, in winter, they migrate from Bagori to Uttarkashi and Dunda. 

Since Jadh Bhotiyas were originally the inhabitants of the Indo-Tibetan border villages, some influences of the Tibetan culture are very much in evidence like their costumes, the use of prayer flags, the food habits etc. Most of the Jadh Bhotiyas of Bagori follow Hindu religious practices. If I go by some displays, they had recently celebrated Navratri and Dussehra. Probably they would be celebrating Diwali also. This village has set good example of intermingling of Buddhist culture with Hindu religious activities and vice versa. 

Since the winter had not yet started and the apple season is in full swing, almost all the houses in Bagori are occupied. A feature I have noticed of Bagori is that houses are constructed in rows on both sides of the paved street which are mostly made up of Deodhar wood with some carvings. It appears that most of Bhotiyas preferred wood houses with carvings as I had witnessed such Bhotiya houses in villages of Darma, Mana and Niti valleys. Most of the apple orchards and agricultural farms are located on the backside of the houses. It appears that Jadh Bhotiyas had followed some system in village planning.

The board detailing the history of Bagori village.

One of the many Deodhar wood houses with carvings.

The intricate wood carving in a Bagori home.

The contrast - A house made up of Deodhar wood on the right and a newly constructed house with cement bricks on the left.

A well wood carved 'Nelong Homestay' in Bagori village. The homestay was closed.

The main vocations in Bagori village are growing apples and Rajma as cash crops, handcrafts, producing wool items like shawls, gloves, mufflers, coats etc which are displayed outside their houses for sale. While KS bought a necklace and earrings, I bought a small shoulder bag. We also bought fresh apples - both red and green @ Rs.50/- per kg. which we consumed during our day trekking. The apples were sweet, crispy and juicy.

Walking on the main pathway in Bagori village which is of 1 km distance.

A Buddhist temple in Bagori. Just across the street is a Hindu temple of Laal Devta

Wood crafted artifacts on display with windmill.

Apple crates waiting to be loaded on minivan for onward transportation on highway in trucks.

KS tasting the Bagori apple which we bought in the village.

A street scene in Harsil in the evening. Only KS and I were on the street.

Harsil market and taxi stand. In the background is Lama Top.

After about 1 hour of walking trip in Bagori village, we headed back to Harsil market which has some attractive looking houses with paintings. There were not many tourists on the streets. In the evening, we arranged for the next day's trip to Bhaironghati for Gartang Gali trek, thereafter to Gangotri and back to Harsil. More about this part of our trip in the next Blog.