My First Trip to the Himalaya - July 1984

I was going through the chronicles of my treks in the Himalaya when I realised that my first trip to the Himalaya was not the hills stations in Uttarakhand nor in Himachal Pradesh but the pilgrimage to Amarnath in Kashmir in July 1984. I glanced through the photos of the pilgrimage taken in my 'aim and shoot' camera in 24mm films and memories of the trip came back to me in a kaleidoscope of images.

Eight of my office colleagues decided to go on a pilgrimage to Amarnath in Kashmir valley in the month of July 1984. My curiosity about the formation of a natural ice-lingam inside Amarnath cave which could be seen in the months of July-August made me to join the group. We booked the train journey to Jammu for July 6, 1984 so that we would be at the Amarnath cave on the full moon day during which the ice lingam was supposed to be in its full size.

There was some uncertainty about our trip as in the first week of June 1984, the army launched Operation Blue Star to flush out militants from the Golden Temple. There were violent protests in Punjab. To add to our problem, the violence also erupted in the Kashmir valley for many days when the Government led by Chief Minister Farooq Abdulla was dismissed in the last week of June 1984. After debating ourselves about the desirability or otherwise of undertaking the trip in the unsettled situations in Punjab and Kashmir, we unanimously decided to go ahead with our planned trip assuming that things will improve by the schedule date of our journey.

When we reached Mumbai Central station, we came to know of the fact that the Jammu-Tawi Super Fast Express would be terminated at New Delhi due to the prevailing situation in Punjab. We boarded the train with a wishful thought that we may get some trains from New Delhi for Jammu. As announced, our train was terminated at New Delhi. Since there were no trains scheduled to Jammu, we proceeded to Kashmiri Gate bus stand to scout for Jammu bus. Fortunately, we got a morning J&K Roadway bus bound for Jammu. We were quite pleased with our efforts as we will still be able to reach Jammu by late evening.

As we reached the outskirt of Karnal, our bus broke down and it took about 5 hours to rectify the problem. Thereafter, it was a smooth journey with not much traffic on the road. The bus reached the Jullunder bus stand at around 7.00 p.m. only to be told that we would have to take an overnight halt at Jullunder as night journey was risky in the prevailing situation in Punjab. There were instances of militants stopping the buses and shooting passengers selectively. After spending a sleepless night, we started the onward journey to reach Jammu bus stand at around 10.30 a.m. The Mumbai-Jammu journey which was supposed to take 32 hours, took almost 50 hours.

We boarded an already delayed J&K Roadway bus bound for Srinagar. After security checks by an army jawan, the bus ultimately left Jammu at 2.30 p.m. When the bus reached Batote, the driver announced that the bus would halt here for the night and depart for Srinagar the next day early morning. At this point, a few of the passengers protested stating that this was not told to them at Jammu. The driver explained to them that it was a normal procedure to take a night halt when a bus got delayed and not able to make it to Srinagar by early night. And the driver was feeling sleepy. But these passengers were in no mood to listen to the driver's explanation. Fed up with the arguments and counter arguments, the bus driver left the bus in a huff and slept on a nearby bench. Later, the aggrieved passengers took the issue with the bus conductor to make the driver to take the bus to Srinagar. But having snubbed by these passengers, the driver was insistent in taking a night halt.

It appeared that somehow these passengers managed to convince the conductor as to how important for them to reach Srinagar at the earliest. Tired of the events and of more than 50 hours of continuous journey, we all sat on our seats preparaing to take naps when suddenly the bus started moving. First we thought that at last, these passengers had persuaded the driver to drive the bus. But we sat to our surprise that it was the conductor who was now driving the bus. Fortunately, the conductor's driving was smooth. Later we came to know that these passengers were journalists who were eager to reach Srinagar as early as possible to cover the latest situation in Srinagar and send reports to their respective newspapers by morning.

The bus reached the outskirt of Srinagar at around 2.00 a.m. At the check point, the police told the conductor that a dusk to dawn curfew was clamped in Srinagar and as such the passengers will not be able to go out from the bus stand. He then suggested him to take the bus to Tourist Reception Centre (TRC) where the passengers could take rest until morning. As directed by the police, we reached TRC at around 2.30 a.m. The TRC Manager was very helpful in providing temporary accommodation to us in one of the rooms which was mainly used for storing blankets, matteress and pillows. When he heard of our Amarnath plan, he advised us to proceed to Pahalgam early morning as the situation in Srinagar could get worsen leading to the reimposition of curfew.

Getting ready for departure from our guest house at Pahalgam

Refreshed with three hours of sound sleep, the next day, we proceeded to Pahalgam( 2130m) by a taxi which dropped us at the guest house which was already booked for us. The guest house was spacious having a common room, 2 bed rooms, and a kitchen with services of a cook. For the first time after leaving Mumbai, we felt relaxed as there was not an iota of tension which was evident during our journey into Punjab and then to Srinagar. The caretaker arranged three porters for carrying our luggage. We had already made the reservation of pitched tents at Chandanwari, Sheshnag and Panchatarni enroute to Amarnath through correspondence from Mumbai. Although, all these places had few dabhas to cater to the pilgrims, we did take provisions, stove and kerosene as two of our group members were keen to cook the food for us.

The following day, we commenced a 16 km trek to Chandanwari (2920m) on a dirt road skirting the Lidder river. We saw a couple of jeeps packed with local passengers moving on this road. After crossing a bridge over Lidder, we reached Chandanwari early afternoon. There were many tents picthed on the camp site of which two tents were allotted to us. These were military style tents with 4 folding beds. We had dal rice for lunch prepared by one of the group member.

Filling water from Lidder river for drinking

The next day, we resumed our 12 km trek to Sheshnag. After crossing the snow-bridge over the Sheshnag stream, we were on a steep winding climb of Pisu Ghati. Being the first exposure to steep climbing to most of us, we made a very slow progress to reach the Pisu Top (3390m). We were happy to see a couple of tea shops where se stopped for rest and hot tea. The valley from this spot looked beautiful.

Valley view from Pishu Top

After about 6 kms of a gradual accent we reached a point from where there was again a steep climb of about 2 kms followed by one km of level walk to a place called Wawajan (3550m) where our tents were pitched. At the opposite side the camp site was the blue coloured Sheshnag lake with Trinity peaks in the background. Although there is beautiful camping on the bank of the lake, but to reach there, one will have to walk on a steep slope.

Sheshnag lake

The next day, some members of the group decided to take the pony ride as they were not physically fit to trek further. Since all of us wanted to be together in our pilgrimage trail, those who could trek, joined them on ponies (Sheshnag-Amarnath Cave-Sheshnag) and started our march at 7.30 a.m. After ascending one km, the climb to Mahagunus Pass (around 4400m) started. Even though we were on ponies, the thinness of air was evident. I could see that my pony was breathing very fast resulting in foams coming out of the pony's mouth.

Our fellows at Mahagunas Pass

After crossing the pass, the path was mostly flat until we reached a downward slope. From here the vast meadow of Panchatarani (4270m) was visible with large number of tents. After depositing our personal belonging in the allotted tents, we continued to move ahead and now we were moving on small patches of snow on our path with Amar Ganga streams flowing just 30 feet below the path. After about 3 kms of decent through the valley we reached the base of the Amarnath cave. This was the point up to which ponies were allowed. Rest of 2 kms to Amarnath cave was completed by trek.

A dip in ice-cold water of Amar Ganga

After a refreshing dip in the ice-cold water of Amar Ganga stream flowing just about 100 meters below the cave, we climbed about 100 stony steps to reach the Amarnath cave (4170m) at 12.30 a.m. There was not much of pilgrims' rush, and we did have a nice and satisfying darshan of ice-shivling. There were two more rectangular shaped ice-formation, which according to the priest, represented Parvati and Ganesh. Since the cave floor was covered with ice sheet, it was an ordeal for all of us to stand on the barefoot.

Some of us posing for photo in front of ice shivling.

After spending an hour or so in the vicinity of Amarnath, we commenced our return journey of 5 kms to Panchatarani to take the night halt in our tents. The camp site was located on a flat meadow surrounded by tall mountains and the five streams flowing through it provided plenty of water sources.

The next day early morning, we started our pony ride from Panchatarni to Sheshnag and then to Pahalgam by trek to reach by late evening. We stayed in the comfort of our guest house. The following day, we departed by bus to Srinagar by which time, normalcy had returned in the Kashmir valley. After spending two days in around Srinagar for sight-seeing, we bid our adieu to Kashmir valley and boarded a morning delux bus for Jammu. As we reached a place called Mand, about 50 kms before Jammu, we saw a bus about to depart for Katra. Since we had one extra day to spare, we took an impromptu decision to get down from the Jammu bus and take the Katra bus for visiting Vaishodevi shrine.

We reached Katra in the late evening. After dumping our haversacks and other luggage in one of dharamshalas near the bus stand and taking an early dinner, we commenced the 14 km trek to Vaishnodevi at around 8.00 p.m. and reached the shrine at 2.00 a.m. We got an early darshan of Vaishnodevi as there were not many pilgrims in the queue. After taking rest for an hour or so, we started our return trek to reach Katra at dawn and then by a bus to Jammu in the afternoon.The next day, after some local sight-seeing, we boarded the Jammu-Mumbai Super Fast Express and reached Mumbai the following day.

This was the trip which was full of adventure of a different kind. As I relook at the trip after 24 years, I now realise that the trip was not as efficiently planned as we do today. Most of us relied on the experience of our group leader who had earlier done the Amarnath pilgrimage. We took the trip as a pilgrimage and neglected the trekking aspects - the physical fitness, precautions to be taken on mountains and the problems at higher altitude. Many of us were not even aware that we were to cross a 4500m plus to reach Amarnath.

The trip, however, made me 'addicted' to the Himalaya in general and to the world of trekking in particular. The flip sides of this trip were that I missed to capture many of the beautiful sceneries due to the limitation of my 'aim and shoot' camera. Furthermore, I was not happy with the pony ride from Sheshnag to Amarnath and back as I missed the trekking opportunity on the Mahagunas pass and the sceneries in this route. I was mostly concentrating on my pony which often moved towards the edge of the path due to the temptation of green grass and shrubs. A loss of balance at such juncture would have resulted in serious injuries if not fatal.

When I reached Mumbai, I decided to revisit the Amarnath cave - more as a trekking destination than the pilgrimage - with a reasonably good SLR camera. I did complete the trek to Amarnath in July 1987 with a Pentax K-1000 SLR camera. While, we had a smooth journey from Mumbai to Srinagar, we faced some hardships during the trek especially from Sheshnag to Amarnath cave which was, to my surprise, was heavily snow bound. It was virtually a 17+17 km of snow trek from Sheshnag to Amarnath Cave and back to Sheshnag. I will share more experience about this trek in another post.

Photos by the author.

Panch Kedar Treks - September 1992

The middle Himalayan range of the Garhwal region, also known as Rudra Himalaya, stretches from Kedarnath in the west to Badrinath in the east. It is in this range that the five Kedar shrines – the Panch Kedars are situated at altitude ranging from 2500m to 3600m. The five Kedars are Kedarnath, Madhmaheswar, Tungnath, Rudranath and Kalpanath. All these five Kedars are the manifestation of Shiva in various forms - Kedarnath (hump of a bull), Madhmaheshwar (belly), Tungnath (arm), Rudranath (face) and Kalpanath (hair). All the trek routes to Madhmaheshwar, Tungnath and Rudranath come under the Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary.

My trekking group was very keen that we attempt Panch Kedar treks for our '92 slot. After getting necessary background information including the rough trek map from GMVN, Rishikesh (they were very prompt in replying all our querries), we decided to do the trek in the month of September. Jambukeswaran, my trekking partner and an expert on religious convention suggested that we undertake the treks from west to east and also visit Badrinath after completion of the trek. All things settled, we boarded the Frontier Mail from Mumbai for New Delhi. The overnight Mussoorie Express took us to Haridwar the next day early morning. We reached Rishikesh by a bus and stayed in a hotel near GMOA Bus Stand for overnight. Next day, we took an early morning bus which reached Gaurikund in the late afternoon. After walking one km from the bus stand through a congested path, we checked in GMVN.

Gushing Mandakini rivr near Rambara on way to Kedarnath

Kedarnath Trek (14+14 kms)We left Gaurikund (1981m) early morning for 14 km trek to Kedarnath (3584m). The first 7 kms trek, all along Mandakini river ,was a gradual climb on a broad muddy path. After crossing a wooden bridge over a stream, we reached Rambara. The trek from here to Garur Chatty (5 kms) was of a steep climb followed by a 1 km of level walk up to GMVN which was located about 1 km before Kedarnath temple. In the evening, we paid obeisance at the Kedarnath temple.

Kedardome as seen from Kedarnath

Trijuginarayan Trek (5+5 kms)
Next day, we trekked back to Gaurikund and after spending overnight at GMVN, the follwing day, we took a morning bus to Sonprayag from where a 5 km trek through forest led us Trijuginaryan temple. This was the place where Vishnu was said to have solmnised the wedding of Shiva and Parvati. The temple is made of grey stones. We saw pilgrims taking bath from the water drawn from a small well located in the temple complex. Some religious ceremony was also in progress in the temple. After spending some time in the temple complex, we trekked back to Sonprayag and stayed in a hotel opposite the bus stand.

We at Trijuginaryan temple

Next day, we got an early morning bus for Ukhimath which was proceeding to Badrinath via Ukhimath. We learnt that the bus was called Bhookh Hartal, so named because it was introduced on Gaurikund-Badrinath route via Ukhimath-Chopta-Gopeshwar only following the hunger strike by villagers around Ukhimath. This was to be our bus for the road journey until Gopeshwar for treks up to Rudranath. The bus stopped on the main road from where a 1 km walk through the village path led us to Ukhimath temple.

Ukhimath temple complex

The temple is called Omkareswar and it is the winter seats of Kedarnath and Madhmaheshwar. The priests of these temples also stayed in the Ukhimath temple complex during winter. After paying obeisance at the temple, we met one of the temple official who arranged a Nepali guide for our Madhmaheshwar trek. The family of Madhmaheshwar priest staying in the complex invited us for tea. The priests at Kedarnath, Madhmaheshwar and Rudranath are from Karnataka and they are rotated at these temples every year. The priest's family gave us a cloth bag containing vegetables and other items with a request hand over the same to the priest at Madhmaheshwar.

Madmaheshwar Ganga as seen from the suspension bridge

Madhamaheshwar Trek ( 26 +26 kms)The 26 km trek to Madhmaheshwar started from Mansuna village, 8 kms jeep drive from Ukhimath. The first 3 km trek was a gradual descent through paddy fields. After crossing a suspension briedge over Madhmaheswar Ganga and after a gradual climb of 6 kms through forest, we reached Ransi village. We stayed overnight in a villager's house which had a toilet and a bathrom. In the evening, we visited a local Shiva temple where we saw some locals offerring brahma kamals to deity. We had a good dinner and breakfast in the owner's house.

The house in Ransi we stayed

The following day, we trekked on a gradual ascent to Gaundhar along the Madhmaheshwar Ganga which flows through the valley. The glen was deep and stretched into horizon. It was interesting to note that while the valley adjoining the trekking path was full of grass, the valley on the opposite side was full of dense forest. While on this part of the trekking path, I saw a couple of dark brown colour snakes quickly crossing the trekking path and moving into the grassy patch. I also saw many large chameleons moving on the boulders near the path. Perhaps, the warm weather must have compelled them to come out of their pits. At Gaundhar, we took a break for lunch at one of the all-in-one shop.

Madhmaheshwar valley - one side grass, the other side dense forest

From Gaundhar, it was a steep climb of 12 kms to Madhmaheshwar. The climb became steeper after Nanu. From the top of the ridge, a 1 km walk on a level path led us to aamlet. The temple was located at the far end of the hamlet. We reached Madhmaheshwar (3490m) in the afternoon. We met the priest and handed over the cloth bag given to us by his family at Ukhimath. He looked pleased after checking the contents. He must have got the vegetables of his liking. He directed us to occupy a room on the first floor house of the Temple Council.

Madhmaheshwar on the left and Temple Guest House in the middle

The temple set in a meadow was made up of grey stones. The gurgling waters of the three small streams around the temple was the only sound breaking the serenity of the place. The place became very cold in the evening and we had to come back to our room covering ourselves with blankets. It was only when the nearby dabha owner came to our room to tell us that the dinner was ready, we reluctantly came out of the room.

Next morning, after having a quick bath, we went to the temple to witness the morning pujas for which the priest had specially invited us. The puja was a short affair with priest placing Brahma Kamals on the lingam with chanting of mantras. This was followed by an aarti. After the conclusion of the pujas, we proceeded to a 1 km climb to Budha Madmaheshwar which was located on a table top. From here, we had a ring side view of Chaukhambha peaks.

Chaukhambha peaks as seen from Budha Madhmaheshwar

After taking leave of priest, we commenced our return trek to Ransi and then to Mansuna the next day. The weather was fine through out the trek. At Mansuna, we got the share jeep for Ukhimath. We stayed at GMVN which was located near the road side facing the Mandakini valley. The Rest House was very clean and the food , though basic, was good.

Tungnath Trek ( 3.5+3.5 kms)

Next morning, we departed for Chopta by Bhookh Hartal bus. At Chopta, we kept our haversacks in a tea shop and commenced 3.5 kms of paved trek to Tungnath. As we proceeded, we could see beautiful Chopta meadows slopping towards the road. The stony path looked like a long stair case. On the way, I met a Mumbai photographer who was on a photography assignment. He said that he was camping in Tungnath for the last two days waiting for a clear weather to take pictures of himalayan view, but no success so far. After precipitous climb, we reached Tungnath (3680m) in fine weather. But the strong cold breeze made us uncomfortable.

Chopta meadow

After a visit to the temple, we spent about an hour in the temple vicinity to enjoy the scenery. There were some pilgrims and a group of school children who had come here for trekking. Since the sky was cloudy, we did not venture for trek to Chandrashilla.

Tungnath temple

By afternoon, we were back in Chopta and checked in GMVN Rest House which was strategically located for the snow-clad peaks on the north-west horizon. [ GMVN Rest House at Chopta has been closed since then]. Our evening was spend in the GMVN lawn waiting for the sunset view on the peaks. Although it was cold outside, the constant supply of hot bhajias and tea from a dabha located just outside the compound of GMVN made our day.

GMVN Rest House as seen from Tungnath trek path

Rudranath Trek (22+22 kms)

There were two options to trek Rudranath which was our next trekking destination - Mandal-Anusuya Devi or Gopeshwar-Sagar. GMVN had suggested us to take the Sagar route. As we prepared for the road journey to Gopeshwar the next day, we learnt that buses were off the road due to a flash chakka jam agitation. We had almost resigned to spend a day more in Chopta when we heard of roaring noise of the bus which was seen at the foothills. It took about 20 minutes for the bus to reach Chopta and it was the Bhookh Hartal bus. We had to make a great efforts to get into the bus as it was crowded. We had no option but to travel a 40 km journey on a bumpy road standing all the way to Gopeshwar. We checked in GMVN located just opposite the bus stand.

In to the dense forest on way to Rudranath

We were told that the trek to Rudranath was the most difficult of the Panch Kedar treks. Since we planned to reach Rudranath on the same day, we left Gopeshwar at 4.00 in the morning by a pre-arranged jeep for a 5 km drive to Sagar which was the starting point of the 22 km trek to Rudranath. The first 3 km trek was of a gradual climb through fields after which we reached a small meadow. We sat down here to eat whatever eatables we bought with us. Fortunately, a shepherd served us tea. With this, we were rejunuvated to resume the most difficult stretch of this trek - the 12 kms climb to Panar.

A great expanse on way to Rudranath

The trek to Panar was a gruelling steep climb through dense forest, often slippery with thick foliage. At some places, we were required to wade through thick high grass, a perfect place for a leopard to hide for his pray. There was no well-beaten path and at few places, we were required to walk through the uprooted trees. Understandly, our going was slow. Luckily, the weather was fine. Earlier, we were told by GMVN Manager at Gopeshwar that this forest was inhabitted by leopards and bears. He advised us to trek together with sticks to ward off wild animals.

Trekking on the ridge on way to Rudranath

At around noon, we were out of the forest to reach Panar. Here a Sadhu, known as Nepali Baba, served us tea. He was staying in a cave and there seemed to be sufficient space for a few trekkers to stay overnight in this cave. Alternatively, once could pitch tent here. From Panar, it was a 7 km trek on a ridge with occasional short climbs and descent. As we were near our destination, the sky became overcaste and it started drizzling for a short while. But the mist on the ridge made the visiblity poor which compelled us to walk very slowly. At the end of the ridge, we found ourselves facing the red stone front of the Rudranath temple, huddled under a projecting rock, which was at a small distance.

Rudranath temple front. On left is the priest.

The location of Rudranath temple (3354m) is really awesome. River Vaitarni flows behind the temple and goes through the meadow where there are some scattered small lakes. A shephered told us that if we could wait until evening, we would be able to see a group of musked deers roaming in the meadow and if lucky, even bears could be seen. Unfortunately, the white clouds fully covered the Himalayan ranges. Although the weather was sunny, the cold breeze blowing from the ridge made us uncomfortable to stand and enjoy the stependous view for long. Later, we went to the priest's house which was located adjunct to the temple. The house was made up of stone slabs and the floor was plastered with cow dung. There was a make-shift firewood place and the flames from wood made the room somewhat warmer than the outside. He instructed our Nepali guide to stay in the stone hut located at the end of row and take some blankets stored in his house for our use. We attended the evening puja, followed by a dinner of kichadi prepared by our guide and retired for the day.

The night was very cold and even the two-three woollen blankets could not give me necessary comfort from the cold. None of us got any sleep in the cold night. How nice it would have been if we could stayed in priest's house which had a fire place. I just sat down with double blankets covering my body with chattering teeth and eagerly waited for the glimpse of dawn. We were told that the sunrise on the snow-clad peaks was magnificent in Rudranath. But the weather gods were not on our side. What we saw was an overcast sky and thick mist over the meadow. There was also the light rains. We could not withstand the cold and hurriedly went back inside the hut waiting for our guide to bring the glasses of hot black tea. With weather improving, we resumed our return trek opf 22 kms to Sagar which was covered in less than 5 hours. At Sagar, we took a share jeep to Gopeshwar and stayed in GMVN.

Kalpanath Trek (9+9 kms)

Next day, we got into 05.30 morning bus to Badrinath for a 44 km journey to Helang. After deposting our haversacks with a tea shop, we commenced our 9 kms trek to Kalpeshwar. After crossing a suspension bridge over Alakhnanda river, we were on a moderate climbing path.

Pine trees on a table top land on way to Urgam

After 2 kms, we were walking through the forest mostly of pine trees. After a further 3 kms of trek, we were in Urgam valley, one of the most fertile and beautiful valleys in the Garhwal region, with terraced fields. There were many houses on the upper slope of the valley. No doubt, we met many villagers on our trekking path.

Urgam valley. Urgam village is in the background

After the Urgam village, the last 2 kms trek led us to the top of the Urgam valley where the Kalpanath temple (2250m) was situated. The entrace to the temple was through a cave. We saw a few Sadhus mediating on a roof of a house near the temple.

Entrance to Kalpanath temple

We returned to Helang by afternoon of the same day. After collecting haversacks from the Tea shop, we proceeded by bus to Joshimath for the overnight halt. We travelled to Badrinath on the next day to thank the Badri Vishal for our successful completion of the Panch Kedar treks. In the afternnon, we walked to Mana village. After spending some time in around Mana, we returned to Badrinath for the overnight stay in GMVN.

Neelkanth peak as seen from Badrinath

The next day early morning, we got the first bus which reached Haridwar in the late evening. Thus our spiritual and adventerous trek of Panch Kedar came to an end.

All photos by the author