Champaner-Pavagadh - Visits to Some UNESCO World Heritage Mosques

After completion of our visit to Statue of Unity (SOU) at Ekta Nagar (Kevadia) on December 22, 2024, we returned to Vadodara by tourist taxi via Neelkanth Dham at Poicha for our return journey to Borivali, Mumbai. I had a spare day at Vadodara. While scouting for nearby excursions from Vadodara, I came across a UNESCO World Heritage site - Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park comprising of 114 old monuments like Forts, Hindu/Jain temples, mosques, tombs, step-well etc.  Since I was always interested in the old monuments with archaeological features, I earmarked the place for the visit on December 24, 2024. 

Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park is located around 50 kms from Vadodara in Panchmahal district of Gujarat. We reached Champaner from Vadodara in about hour's drive. Our first visit was Kalika Mata temple, located 5 kms from Champaner via a single lane hill road overlooking the Pavagadh hills, a part of the Vindhyachal mountain range. Kalika Mata was the family deity of the Chauhan Rajput's, the ruler of Pavagadh during 14th century. The road ends one km short of the Kalika Mata temple, which is located at the Pavagadh hilltop (800m). From the road-end, the pilgrims have to take a ropeway to reach 500m short of the temple. Thereafter, the temple is reached through a climb on the stairs. Alternatively, one can reach the temple by taking an arduous trek of 5 kms from Champaner.

Because of the Christmas holidays, there was a heavy rush of pilgrims/tourists which reached to an unmanageable level at the ticket counters of the ropeway. There was a serpentine queue for the ropeway tickets. After standing in the queue for about 30 minutes when the queue remained stationary, we decided to abandon our visit to the temple as we saw hordes of more pilgrims/tourists joining the crowds making a stampede like situation. After offering our prayers to the temple, which was visible from the ticketing queue, we returned to Champaner at noon.

Part of Vindhyachal mountain ranges seen from road to Pavagadh hilltop.

 

Author on the road to Pavagadh with the background of Kalika Mata temple on the hilltop.

In the hindsight, I think, it is preferable to plan for a visit to Kalika Mata temple on weekdays when the rush of the pilgrims is comparatively less. Also, as we came to know later, it is better to book ropeway tickets well in advance through on-line website which, as I noticed, got priority over the tickets purchased on the counter in boarding the ropeway cars. 

We had 4 hours at our disposal after adjusting for lunch time before we return to Vadodara. Hence, we concentrated on 3-4 monuments which were close to Champaner.  

Jami Masjid

Jami Masjid is situated at the heart of Champaner within the ruined wall of  Champaner Fort. It is the biggest among the heritage mosques in the Archaeological Park with least damages over the period of time. The mosque was constructed during the reign of Sultan Mahmud Begadha, the last name in Gujarati meaning the two forts (Be Gadh) because he captured Champaner Fort and Pavagadh Fort from Raval's and Chauhan's, respectively in 1484 after a yearlong seize. Simultaneously, he shifted his capital from Ahmedabad to Champaner. It took more than 25 years to complete the construction of Jami Masjid, with year of completion mentioned as 1508-09. This means that Jami Masjid belongs to the pre-Mughal era. 

Jami Masjid, South face as seen from the entrance to the Park. It is the biggest among a dozen heritage mosques in Champaner-Pavagadh. It is the only Masjid which has remained almost free from ruins despite it being over 500 years old.

Jami Masjid can be accessed through three porches on its North, South, and the East sides. It the East porch which has the maximum intricate carvings and floral ornamentations on the entrance as well inside the porch. The East porch has three open windows with carvings on their borders. It is through this porch one can see the main entrance of the prayer hall with two tall minarets. The lower half of the minarets have also intricate carvings and floral ornamentations.

The author at the entrance of East porch of Jami Masjid. Note two cenotaphs on the roof

Intricate carvings on the arch-type open door of the East porch of Jami Masjid.

The East porch has a circular open roof.

The author sitting on an open windowsill of the East porch.

Jami Masjid has a large prayer hall with five archways facing the east with the central archway being the main entrance to the prayer hall. The central archway is flanked by two tall minarets with intricate carvings and floral ornamentation of the lower parts of them. Once inside the prayer hall, one gets to know its vast area which have symmetrically placed 172 pillars for the support of the roof. Some of the pillars have carvings which shows the influence of Hindu/Jain architecture. 

The main prayer hall of Jami Masjid with five archways and three Jharokhas.

Floral ornamentations on the middle part of the two minarets of Jami Masjid. Note the lotus petal carvings on both sides of the lower part of floral design signifying the influence of Hindu/Jain architecture.

One of the Jharokas of the prayer hall of Jami Masjid, probably influenced by Rajput architecture.

The central dome of the prayer hall as well as the central mihrab are placed in line with the central archway. Central dome is slightly elevated to pass sunlight into the prayer hall. The north side of the prayer hall is partitioned by a stone screen. Probably, the small prayer hall may be meant for the ladies with separate entrance. There are two jharokhas (balconies) facing east attached to the prayer hall signifying the influence of the Rajput architecture.

Jami Masjid has been constructed in pink sandstones except the five mihrabs which are constructed in white marbles. Mihrabs are attached to the wall of prayer halls in the direction of Mecca. It is the ritual requirement of the prayer hall of any mosque. Between the five mihrabs, there are windows with 21 square jhalis (lattice work) of 21 different designs.

Symmetrically placed pillars with central dome in the prayer hall of Jami Masjid.

Symmetrical pillars in the passage outside the prayer hall of Jami Masjid. 

Design on one of the pillars of prayer hall indicate the influence of the Hindu/Jain architecture.

The central Mihrab, one of the five Mihrabs with intricate carving on marble stones in Jami Masjid facing the central archway to the prayer hall. 

Close-up of the central mihrab. The carvings on the marble show a hanging lamp surrounded by the leaves of Kalpavriksha and floral ornamentations which are generally found in Hindu/Jain temples.

Widows with 21 squares with 21 different designs are placed between two mihrabs in the prayer hall.

Jami masjid had been constructed in the midst of a large area of park. The Archaeological Survey of India has maintained the monument as well as the large park neat and clean. On the backside of the monument, there is a clean rest room. There is also a stepwell behind the prayer hall, probably used for ablution in the olden days. The steps in the well are not fully visible due to the high level of water in the well.

A well-maintained park with the background of the passage of the prayer hall of Jami Masjid.

An octagonal shaped stepwell behind the prayer hall of Jami masjid, probably used for ablution in olden days. Steps are not fully visible due to high water level in the well.

It took us almost one hour to complete the visit to Jami Masjid to get the real feel of the grandeur of the bygone era. What amazed me was the carvings on the marble stones of Mihrabs which had the amalgam of Hindu, Jain and Islamic architecture. This indicates that artists comprising Hindus, Jains and Muslims were employed in the construction of Jami Masjid. 

Kabutarkhana Pavilion-Vada Talav

A 2-km drive from Jami Masjid on SH-150 dropped us at Vada Talav (Big Lake) which is situated at the base of the Pavagadh hills and right of the road. One can reach the lake by the side of the road. Kabutarkhana Pavilion is located on the other side of the road (SH-150).  The roof of the Kabutarkhana Pavilion and the upper parts of two minarets on the left and right side of the Pavilion have collapsed. The location of the Pavilion would suggest that it was constructed as a resting place for the royal family and to enjoy the scenery around the lake in the background of Pavagadh hills. 

Kabutarkhana Pavilion with a large ground in the front. Minarets on both sides of the Pavilion have been extensively damaged with only lower parts remaining.

View of Vada Talav from Kabutarkhana Pavilion.

Vada Talav across the road seen from Kabutarkhana Pavilion.

Kamani Masjid

A dirt path in the midst of forest, about one km off the Pavagadh-Halol state highway leads to Kamani Masjid which is in depleted condition. What remains now is the base with stone archways. This mosque was constructed using arch-dome system of load bearing. Hence it is called Kamani (archway) Masjid. This masjid is said to be about 500 years old.

one km of dirt road to Kamani Masjid.

Back side of Kamani Masjid as seen from the entrance.

Kamani Masjid frontage with its arches. The roof has been completely wiped out.

This masjid has been built with stone arch-pillar system of load bearing.

The author under one of the arches of Kamani Masjid. On the right is the remains of a minaret.

Sahar Ki Masjid

Sahar in Urdu means 'dawn'. Sahar Ki Masjid is located close to the ruined royal palace. Its architecture closely resembles that of Jami Masjid with five archways to the prayer hall as well as five mihrabs.  Even most of the carvings in the Masjid are replicated on minarets, pillars and mihrabs. This was a mosque built exclusively for the royal family and the nobles. The main feature of this mosque is that the prayer hall has five big domes and five smaller domes in front and the backside of them. This mosque was built with yellow sandstone during the reign of Sultan Mahmud Begadha.

The frontage of the prayer hall of Sahar Ki Masjid.

The lower one-thirds of the minarets have intricate carvings which seems to be influenced by the Rajput architecture. The upper two-thirds of the minarets have octagonal shape with probable height of 30m. Between the two minarets is the central archway to enter the prayer hall. The front parapet of the roof of the prayer hall has rows of motifs.

Sahar Ki Masjid was meant to be for the exclusive use of the royal family and nobles, but it lacks grandeur of Jami Masjid.

The carvings and ornamentations on the lower part of the minaret bear the influence of Hindu/Jain architecture.

The central archway with a big and a small dome on the roof of the prayer hall of Sahar Ki Masjid.

The backside of the Sahar Ki Masjid with five mini minarets attached to the wall.

Sahar KI Masjid with the background of Pavagadh Hill in the background. Kalika Mata temple is covered in haze on the hilltop.

Kevda Masjid

Kevda Masjid is one of the many mosques built during the reign of Sultan Mahmud Begadha. This one has been constructed using pillar-beam system for the load bearing. It is located within the now ruined Champaner Fort area. However, it is away from the main road. A dirt road on which a small vehicle can go also ends after about 500 metres. The rest of the distance has to be covered by walk through a forested area. 

Kevda Masjid.

Cenotaph of Kevda Masjid.

The layout of the mosque is more or less the same that of other mosques which we have visited so far except that it is smaller in size as compared with Jami Masjid and Sahar Ki Masjid. The prayer hall of the mosque is two-story structure with a central archway (entry to prayer hall) flanked by two minarets which have intricate carvings.  In addition, there is one smaller archway each on both the sides of the minarets. 

There are three mihrabs corresponding to three archways. The carving on the marble stones of mihrabs are more or less of the same design as were seen in other mosques.  There are two jharokhas each on the two sides of the minarets. The central dome over the second floor has vanished. Instead, it is now become a circular open roof. Two smaller domes are still in existence over the first floor. 

There is a square-shaped cenotaph in front of the mosque without any tomb. It has a fluted central dome surrounded by four smaller domes on each direction.

Carvings and floral ornamentations on the lower part of the minaret.

The central dome of the prayer hall of Kevda Masjid has collapsed. Now, the circular roof is open.

Jharokhas on the either side of the subsidiary archway to the prayer hall.

The central Mihran in the prayer hall from where the Imam conducts namaz. 

We would have liked to visit other historical monuments such as Lakulisa temple, Jain Group of temples, Nagina Masjid, Helical stepwell, Brick Masjid etc. which were away from Champaner and involved some walking. However, by the time we have completed our visit to Kevda Masjid, it was already 4:30 pm and because of the haze, the sunlight had faded. 

We returned to Vadodara by 6.00 pm when the sun had already set in.

Mayem Lake - A Pristine Tourist Spot in North Goa

I have been visiting Goa with my family for many years - roughly once in two years to pay obstinances to our Kul Devata (family deity), Shree Navadurga temple at Madkai. During such visits, we would cover some other temples as well as some popular beaches etc. Knowing fully well that Goa tourism is not all about beaches and religious tourism but there are some lesser-known tourist spots in the interior Goa, we decided to explore a couple of such spots on our recent visit to Goa during the Ganesh Festival holidays in September 08-11, 2024. Apart from visiting temples, this time, we decided to cover Mayem Lake which I had heard about it long ago.

The first view of Mayem Lake as we entered the complex. In the background is the boating jetty.

While exploring the route to drive to Mayem Lake from Old Goa on the google map, I notice a place called Harvalem where there is a waterfall as well as Shree Rudreshwar temple and the Harvalem Caves in the vicinity. So, we decided to spend a day in all these places.

After breakfast, we commenced our driving journey from Old Goa. The shortest route is via MDR-20 (Major District Road). However, this route includes a ferry transfer. The other route is via Sanquelim (pronounced as 'Sankeli) which is a longer route by about 10 kms. We took the second route to avoid uncertainty of ferry timing of the first route. We covered 27 kms of distance in about 45 minutes. The road was excellent for driving. The last 4 kms of drive after Dicholi was through the dense forest. 

Google map showing the route we followed to visit Mayem Lake-Harvalem Waterfalls-Harvalem Caves and back to Old Goa by the same route.

We entered the lake area through the road leading to GTDC's Mayem Lake View Residency. Although, it is a private property, tourists are allowed to enter up to the Viewing Platform which is just opposite the reception office of Mayem Lake View. My first impression on watching the lake from the Viewing Platform was 'what a pristine place! The lake is surrounded by small hills with dense vegetation. Moreover, the shores of the lake have plants and shrubs which are conducive for migratory birds for nesting. Probably, we would have got to see migratory birds if we had visited the lake early morning.

Mayem Lake is one of the largest freshwater lakes in Goa. After undergoing renovation for many months, the lake was re-opened for tourists sometime in 2019 providing some additional recreational facilities and a Bungee Jumping platform. However, during 2020-21 the lake was virtually closed for tourists due to Covid protocols. It remerged as a tourist spot from 2022 onwards. The Bungee Jumping and the pedal boating activities in the lake have attracted the tourists. 

East-West view of Mayem Lake from the bridge connecting Bicholim road with District Road No.22. In the background is Bungee jumping platform.

Mayem Lake with Taleshwar temple in the background. On the right is the bridge connecting Bicholim road.

GTDC's Mayem Lake View cottages in the background.

 

One of the cottages of GTDC's Lake View Hotel almost touching the water of Mayem Lake.

On the Lake View Hotel's Viewing Platform. In the background is pedal-boating jetty and other recreational places.

Pedal boating jetty, a Cafeteria and places for other recreational activities on the opposite shore of the Mayem Lake.

Harvalem Waterfalls and Rudreshwar Temple Complex

We had visited Mayem Lake in Monsoon which is an off-season for tourists in Goa. Moreover, we were in the midst of Ganesh Festivals. So, the boating and other recreational facilities were closed for 5-days during the festival period. Even Cafeteria - both at the lake shore as well as of GTDC's Mayam Lake View Residency were closed. Only the Bungee Jumping was opened. But we found no other tourists in around Mayem Lake except us. In a way, it was good for us as we spend a very peaceful one-hour quality time, exploring the lake from its three shores.

In our return journey, we took a detour from Sanquelim town (12 kms) to visit Shree Rudreshwar temple and Harvalem Waterfalls in the temple's vicinity. From Harvalem village (pronounced as 'Haravale') road end, it is about 200 steps down to reach Shree Rudreshwar temple complex and the waterfalls. In fact, one can see the waterfalls through the arch of the side entrance to the temple.

Shree Rudreshwar temple has been built on an old temple site with a superb location. It is nestled in the midst of dense forest with a waterfall on the River Harvalem (also called River Kudne) which flows by the side of the temple. Rudreshwar is one of the forms of Lord Shiva and, the deity of Shree Rudreshwar is in the human form in the temple. This temple represents a good amalgam of a serene landscape with spiritual atmosphere. 

 

Shree Rudreshwar temple, Harvalem.

Deity of Shree Rudreshwar in the temple.

Harvalem Waterfalls seen through the side entrance arch of Shree Rudreshwar Temple.

Harvalem Waterfalls can be reached through the side entrance of Shree Rudreshwar temple. There are two ways to watch the waterfalls. First, after climbing a few steps from the temple side, one can step down to reach the base of the waterfall where it merges with the flow of the Haravlem river. Due to vigorous monsoon rains in the last few days, the waterfall is very large and forceful which is risky to be at the base of the fall. The second way is to climb further steps to reach a viewing platform very close to the waterfall. We preferred the second way to the waterfall. The force of the waterfall was such that the sprinkles from the waterfall fell as far as about 50 feet away. We got fully drenched with the sprinkles before we could reach the viewing platform though it was a sunny weather. 

Harvalem Waterfalls.

The author on the viewing platform with the background of Harvalem Waterfalls

After the waterfall, a barrage has been constructed to regulate the flow of water in Harvalem River.

Well spread-out trunks of a banyan tree at the shore of Harvalem River at Shree Rudreshwar temple complex. Photo by Sandeep Kamath.

On our return journey to Old Goa from Rudreshwar temple, Harvalem Caves was at a distance of less than 500 metres. I had never heard of these caves until this visit to Goa. It is said that the history of these caves dates back to 6th Century BCE. A single laterite rock has been cut into 5 caves of which three caves have Shivlings. Interestingly, these Shivlings are not 'standalone' but are enshrined in pithas. On one of the Shivlings, there are inscriptions in Brahmi script which was in vogue during the reigns of Samrat Ashok and Chandragupta Maurya.

Harvalem Caves.

Shivling with Brahmi inscriptions in one of the Harvalem Caves.

At the end of the journey, we felt great that we visited some lesser-known places in Goa. Despite monsoon season, weather was by and large kind to us. The interior Goa has many less-explored places which I propose to visit in my next trip to Goa.