I have visited Goa
umpteen times since 1970 for paying obstinance to our kuldevata (family deity)
and also attending marriages and other religious functions of my close
relatives. During such visits, I have covered most of the tourist places – both
popular and lesser known. Recently, my
wife and I visited Goa to attend the thread ceremony of one of our close
relatives’ son in Kamakshi temple, Shiroda. It was a two-day function. We had
no plan to combine this function with visit to other places except to make a mandatory
visit to our family temple, Navdurga in Madkai.
The decision to visit Vijaydurga
temple was taken at the spur of the moment when one of my relatives told me
about his plan to visit the temple more so because of the serenity and peaceful atmosphere of the place away from the hustle and bustle of
nearby urban places. His description of the single lane road journey of 9 kms
from Ponda through secluded dense forest and a serene lake adjunct to the temple interested me more than the ultimate
destination. Since we had the free time between 2.00 pm to 5.30 pm, we decided
to visit this temple after lunch.
The 22-km route from Shiroda to Keri.
The 22-km car journey
from Kamakshi Temple, Shiroda via Ponda took about 45 minutes to reach at the
gate of Vijyadurga temple. The last 4-5 kms journey was through ghat section
with winding road. The topography of the last 4-5 km of journey gave me an impression that in the night, one may get lost in the pitch-dark road as there are
some diversions. And there is no one to guide as the route is almost secluded. There
was enough parking space in front gate of the temple. But ours was the only car parked.
The road to Vijaydurga temple, Keri goes through dense forest.
Vijaydurga temple. The left staircase leads to a serene lake.
Vijaydurga temple. Note the influence of Portuguese architecture on the façade of the mandap.
My first impression
about the Vijaydurga temple was why was this place chosen to set up this temple
and why has the place still remained calm and serene notwithstanding the fact that
Goa has seen tremendous developments in the last few years. How did the
vicinity of the temple still remain virgin?
The reasons which I
came to know from the website of the temple is that this temple along with
Shantadurga temple and Laxmi-Narasinh temple were originally located in
Sancoale (now called Sankholi). During the Portuguese rule, these temples (also
some other temples in Goa) were destroyed. Some of the devotees took away the
idols from the temples and installed in the make-shift temples in then secluded
places in around Ponda. The idol of Vijaydurga was installed at Querim (now
known as Keri) which is 35 kms away from Sancoale. The new Vijaydurga temple was constructed in 1560.
Since then, the temple has
gone through some renovations as well as new additions. For example. The mandap
was added in 1797. The new Deep Stambh (Lamp Tower) was constructed in 1986
The deep stambh (Lamp Tower), a small subsidiary temple, and a tulsi vrindvan in front of the temple. This new Deep Stambh was constructed in 1986.
As one enters the
temple complex through the main gate, the first thing that would definitely
impress everyone is the silence that pervades here. The saying – ‘sometimes the
sound of silence is the most deafening sound of all’ – is aptly applicable to Vijaydurga
temple complex. The main reason is that on the one side of the temple has a lake and other
three sides are covered with dense forest and hills with almost no human
habitat in the vicinity of the temple. The whole temple complex including the
temple structures have been kept spick and span. Being a Durga temple, there would be a large
number of devotees visiting the temple during the festivals like Navratri and
Mahashivratri. But I am sure that temple
would remain neat and span after the events are over.
Left side view of Vijaydurga temple.
Right side view of the temple. On the left is one of the subsidiary temples constructed with a steep sloping roof with a blend of modern architecture.
Another side view of the temple.
Another point which I
noted while taking the round of the temple complex is the blend of classical
architecture with the modern architecture. While the main temple with its
mandap has the traditional architecture, that of the façade of the mandap leading
to the inner sanctum seems to have been influenced by the Portuguese
architecture. There are a couple of
subsidiary temples outside the main temple, the construction of which reflects
the modern architecture. There are Sabhagraha (Hall for marriage and other
social functions for the devotees) and the guest house building (also for those
devotees intending to stay overnight) with the modern architecture.
Since the temple is
located in a secluded place where one will not find any hotels, restaurants,
shops or even dwellings in vicinity of 3-4 kms, I was told that the temple
provides simple breakfast, lunch and dinner for which they do not charge, But
the devotees can drop their contributions in the box if they wish to
contribute. We had tea in their canteen at around 4.00 p.m. before we departed
from the temple.
Well crafted mahogany wood sofa (minus the foam mattress), probably used for bride and bride groom in the marriage held in the temple.
The building on the left houses guest rooms for the devotees and on the right is another subsidiary temple with modern architecture.
Since I had already seen
the lake adjoining the temple complex while entering the main gate, after finishing
the temple round, we went outside the gate to see the lake. To the right side
of the gate starts the 50 odd steps going down towards the shore of the lake.
Just before that there is an open ground with a small stage probably used for
performances during the festivals like Navratri. It is a great setting to watch
the performance by the side of the lake. We sat here on a clean bench enjoying
the surroundings of the lake which has on its opposite shore the coconut and arecanut
orchards and then the hills full of greenery.
There were hundreds
of doves fishing in the lakes on the temple side shore for their food when we had seen them from
the temple complex Now. they had gone to the other side of the shore. Probably,
sound of our talking may have disturbed the doves and decided to be away from
the ‘sound pollution’ created by us. I am sure, if we had come in the morning,
we would have the opportunity to watch some more types of birds visiting the
lake. The whole setting around the lake is perfect for meditation as it has an aroma of spirituality.
The main gate of the temple seen from inside the temple complex with a pair of yali stone sculptures.
The lake forms the background to the Vijaydurga temple complex.
The lake.
At the end of the visit, I had an unique experience in which I saw godliness in the entire temple complex and its vicinity due to the serene
settings of the temple.
