Showing posts with label Karnataka. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Karnataka. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 11, 2023

Mirjan Fort - A Fort with Uncertain History

My wife and I along with other 5 couples - all our family relations and all senior citizens, joined a 7-day trip arranged by Anubhav Vacations to some off-beat tourist spots in and around Sirsi town in Uttar Kannada district during December 31, 2022 to January 6, 2023. During our trip, we stayed in Anubhav's own resort, Green World Forest Resort, located 18 kms east of Sirsi town. One of the places covered in the trip was a visit to Mirjan Fort, the name I heard for the first time. I did some research on the Fort to have some basic information before we proceed there.

Mirjan Fort

Mirjan Fort is located 12 kms from Kumta and 23 kms from Gokarna. From our Resort, it was around 78 kms via Sirsi town. A reference to Wikipedia revealed that the Fort does not have a definitive history as to when it was constructed and who constructed it. A display board of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) outside the Mirjan Fort also says that there is no reference as to the construction of the Fort. Yet, based on the contemporary sources, the Fort is supposed to be constructed by Shareef-Ul-Mulk (1608-1640), the ruler of Ponda under the patronage of Adilshahi Sultanate of Bijapur.

The other contemporary sources indicate that the Fort came under the ownership of the Vijayanagar kingdom who allowed Queen Chennabhairva Devi of Tuluva clan who ruled South Kanara (the present Mangluru and Udupi districts), North Canara (the present Uttar Kannada district) and South Goa, to occupy the Fort as a protectorate of Vijayanagar kingdom. She used the Fort for trading in Spices especially pepper and nutmeg. These spices were exported to Middle East and Europe through various ports such as Malpe, Honnavar, Kumta, Mirjan, Bhatkal etc. Because of almost her monopoly of trade in pepper, she was given a title of 'Pepper Queen".

With the decline of Vijayanagar kingdom, other chieftains of the neighbouring regions joined hands and defeated Queen Chennabhairva Devi who was taken as prisoner. She died while in the prison. The Fort changed hands, the Portuguese, the Marathas, and finally the British took the control of the Fort which remained with them until 1947.

Driving direction from Green World Resort to Mirjan Fort.

Ultra-wide-angle view of Mirjan Fort from parking area

The main gate to the Fort on the right.

The stairs from the main gate leading to the Fort.

At the outset, it looked like that a canal surrounded the Fort which is now completely dried. Since Aghanashini River flows very close to the backside of the Fort, it is quite likely that water from the River was diverted through the canal as a part of the protective measure.

There are four entrances, the main and 3 subsidiaries gates of which one is a secret passage now closed. As we enter through the main gate, a climb of about 20 stairs leads to the open plain area covered by laterite stones. There is a staircase going down to a secret underground passage which was closed for the visitors. On the right side of the secret passage, there is a watch tower with a flag post. This flag post is used to unfurl India's flag during the Independence Day. As we move to the left side, there is a big round well now covered with grills on the top as a precautionary measure. The well has water throughout the year. 
Stairs leading to the secret passage in the Fort.


The first of the two big round wells, covered with grills.

The well on the left, the watchtower with flag-post in the middle, another watchtower on the right and the secret passage in the foreground.

As we walk further by the side of the watchtower, we come across a single stone pillar with some carvings which would indicate that the pillar was a part of the temple inside the Fort which is no longer there. As we walk further towards the backside of the Fort, we come across another open space with ruins. The remains of the ruins and two wells inside the Fort indicate that there were houses for those who were permanently settled here in connection with both the trading as well as for the protection of the Fort.

The pillar found on the Fort would indicate that there was a temple inside the Fort which might have been destroyed by the invaders.

Probably the ruins of the houses and the watch towers on both sides.

As we walked towards the backside of the Fort, we found one more well which was also covered with grills. There was a lone Banyan tree below which a stone sculpture of Mahisasur Mardini was kept in the open. This stone sculpture was found by ASI while excavating the Fort. There is also a stone sculpture of tiger kept opposite Mahisasur Mardini Sculpture. This is the only place on the Fort where one can sit under the shadow of the Banyan tree after walking under the sun for a long time.

A bird's eye view from the backside of the Fort. One can see another well on the left and the lone Banyan tree in the middle.

Mahisasur Mardini with the tiger as her vahana under the Banyan tree.

Moving further towards the North-Western side of the Fort which requires a short climb of some uneven steps, we get a beautiful, lush green plains and a meadow by the side of which Aghanashini River flows. This is very beautiful sight for photo session. 
View from the backside of the Fort with Aghanashini River flowing almost by the side of the Fort.

Another view from the Fort with a meadow on the right.

It was nearly 2:00 p.m. when we completed the tour of the Fort, spending around 90 minutes inside the Fort. The weather was warm and humid. As soon as we came out of the Fort, we had tender coconuts as our drink before we boarded the bus for our lunch halt at Go Green Homestay off NH-66. We returned to our Resort in time for dinner after visiting Idagunji Ganapati temple and watching the sunset at Echo Beach in Honnavar.









Thursday, March 19, 2015

Temples of Halebeedu and Belur - A Photoblog

I had visited Belur, Halebeedu and Sravanbelgola in 1991 as a day trip from Bangaluru. However, for want of suffiient time, I could not explore fully the two main Hoysala temples - Chennakeshava temple and Hoysaleshwara temple constructed during 12th Century AD. Since we were already in Chikmagalur, we decided to revisit these temples which are located within about 40 kms from the town.
 
After exploring Kodandarama temple in Hiremagaluru and Veera Narayana temple in Belavadi, we proceeded to first to Halebeedu and then to Belur. We engaged  the tourism department approved guides for both the temples to understand the thoughts behind carvings, sculptures, reliefs and frienzes. We ended the trip by visiting Yagchi dam backwater for a speed boat ride and returned to Chikamagalur by evening. There are empteen blogs and articles available in books as well as on the websites on the temples of Belur and Halebeedu. So I will not go into the details of these two temples. I leave it to pictures taken during the visit  to 'speak' about them. Additionally, I have also captioned these pictures for further elucidation.
 
Some pictures of Hoysaleshwar temple taken during the visit to Halebeedu are uploaded below:
 
1. Hoysaleshwar Temple, Halebeedu
 
Front view of of the twin temples of Hoysaleshwara and Shantaleshwara in Halebeedu. These are Shiva temples constructed during 12th Century AD.
 
One of the well carved black stone pillars inside Hoyleshwara temple.
 
 
One of the stone carved ceilings depicting the dashavataras of Lord Vishnu.
 
The close up of the intricately stone carved over the door leading to sanctum sanctorum of Hoysaleshwara temple.
 
 
The lose up of the mythologial animal over the door frame.

A monolith bull made u of black stone in front of Hoysaleshwara temple. A similar size bull sculpture is also placed in front of the adjunct Shanteshwari temple.
 
 
Halebeedu Shiva temple have more carvings, sculptures and motifs on the outside walls of the temple than inside the temple. This one is a sculpture of Ravan who is seen holding Mount Kailash. Note how Ravan is balaning the weight of the entire Mount Kailash on his legs. 
 
Lord Vishnu on the left and Harihara ( Shiva and Vishnu together) on the right.
 
Lord Ganesh with trunk on his left. 
 
The friezes from down to up of social activities, animals, birds and flowers upon which are some idols of gods.
 
 Lord Bramha.
 

Arjuna with his bow pointing up during Draupadi Swaymvara.
 
 Lord Krishna holding Mount Goverdhan.
 
Lord Shiva, probably in Param (Supreme) Shiva form.
 
Lord Vishnu in Varaha avatar.
 
 Dancing Saraswati with beads on her right hand and a book on her left hand.
 
Ugra Narasimha Avatar.
 
Corner carvings and sculptures.
 
Karna-Arjuna war.
 
Lord Vishnu in Trivikrama form. Lord Vishnu takes a giant leap to reclaim universe. Lord Bramha, the creator of the universe is at the end of the raised foot.
 
A dancer aompanied by two drummers on her either side.
 
A monkey tries to pull a lady who is holding a tree branch in one hand and holding on to her cloth with other hand.
 
Karna is holding on to Arjuna and Bhima(left) while Chkaravuya (right) has been created to trap Abhimanyu.
 
Bhima is about to kill Dushashan (right) while Draupadi who has taken vow not to tie her hairs (middle) until Dushashan is killed, now ties her hairs (left).
 
Lord Shiva and Parvati sit on Nandi who seems to be  grumphy due to double weight.
 
A scene of Amritmanthan. Note that heads of all the persons involved in this act have been damaged by vandals.
 
Halebeedu Museum inside the temple complex. Photogrphy inside the museum is prohibited.
 
A fully bloomed jacaranda tree in the Halebeedu temple complex.
 
2. Chennakeshava Temple, Belur
 
Gopuram at the entrance of Chennakeshava temple, Belur. This picture has been taken from inside the temple complex. From the structure as well as sculptures on it, the gopuram seems to be a later addition and is in the style of Vijaynagar architeture as seen in Hampi temples..

The side view of Chennakeshava temple, Belur.
 
 The pillar made from a single stone in the Belur temple complex. The pillar stands on its own gravity.
 
Pushkarni well inside the temple complex.
 
 Backside view of the temple.
 
A close up of the back side of the temple.
Entrance to Chennakeshava temple sanctum sanctorum. Note the intriate stone carvings.
 
 
The close up of the intricate stone carvings at the entrance.
 
A close up of the side view of Chennakeshava temple with miniature towers.
 
Friezes in layers on the outer wall of the temple.
 
A different type of ornamentations on the lower outer wall of the temple.
 
The layers of friezes upon which sculptures of Gods, musicians and others have been placed. In almost all friezes, the order is elephants in the bottom, followed by horses, flowers, mythologial animals, flowers, war scenes, etc.
 
There are 38 well carved bracket figures, called Madanalikas which are on the top of 38 outer pillars of Chennakeshava temple. It is difficult to imagine that the intricate carvings on each of 38 Madanalikas are in fact the stone carvings. In this picture is the dancing lady with a lady drummer and lady musicians on either side of her feet.
 
Darpan Sundari.
 
 
A monkey on the left is trying to pull the cloth of the maiden.
 
Bhashmasur mardini-Mohini dance.
 
Vish Kanya (Dame of Poison).
 
This sculpture is symbolic of the saying  that for an adolescence boy, every girl looks beautiful even if the she has donkey's face!
 
Lord Shiva slaying demon Gajasura.
 
Intriacately stone carved top of the entrance to the sanctum sanctorum of Chennakeshava temple.
 
There are sculptures of six Shilabalika (celestial maiden) atop six pillars of the central part of the mandap of Chennakeshava temple.This is one of the six sculptures in Bashmasur Mohini dance pose.
 
The sculpture of a celestial maiden doing hiar dressing.
 
The central part of the ceiling of Mandap inside the temple. The protruding part of the delicate sculpture is that of Narasimha avatar.
 
There are a number of stone pillars in the Mandap, each being distinct from others both in terms of carvings and dimension.
 
A close up of the stone carvings on one of the pillars of Mandap.
 
Close up of the arvings on another pillar of Mandap. The colour of the pillar has slight yellowish due to the light of the sodium lamp falling on it.
 
 
This pillar in the mandap is revered by the devotees as there sculptures of Narasimha. Hene it is also called as Narasimha Pillar.