Rambling in Uttarkashi District: Part-5 - Visit to Mukhba Village, the Winter Abode of Maa Ganga

October 13, 2022

We woke up early and had our morning tea. The weather was superfine with complete blue sky. The snow-clad mountains looked more splendid than the previous day with the background of dark blue sky. This prompted us to take a walk and shoot the snow-clad mountains. 

Morning view from Harsil market.

Morning view of Mt. Harsil Horns from the garden of our homestay.

We had scheduled a walk to Mukhba village from Harsil (3 kms) yesterday afternoon. However, the rains spoiled our planned walk and we decided to skip the visit. Today, after the breakfast, we had scheduled to return to Uttarkashi on our back home journey via Dehradun. It was during the breakfast that we thought of requesting the driver of our hired taxi to drive first to Mukhba village for a quick visit and then proceed to Uttarkashi. The driver agreed. 

Our homestay was located on Harsil-Mukhba road and it was a 3-km journey parallel to Gangotri road with Bhagirathi River flowing on the right side. Within 10 minutes, we reached Mukhba village at around 10 a.m. The staircase leading to Maa Ganga temple complex was on the left side of the road itself.

Mukhba road (left), an unnamed peak in the background and Bhagirathi River in the foreground.

Way to Maa Ganga temple, on the Mukhba road, Mukhba. 

Photo by K Srinivasan.

The moment we reached Maa Ganga temple complex after climbing the stairs-cum ramp, we realised that this was not the place for a quick visit but for an easy pace visit. From the temple premises, we got a clear view of snow-clad mountains with some prominent peaks like Mt. Srikantha (6135m) and some unknown peaks. 

Mt. Srikantha (6135m) in the middle shot from Mukhba village. In the foreground is Uttarkashi-Gangotri Road going towards left to Gangotri via Dharali village.

Zoomed shot of Mt. Srikantha

An unknown peak seen from Maa Ganga temple complex in Mukhba village.

Mukhba village is predominantly the home of Semwal brahmin family, a priestly class. The priests of the Gangotri temple hail from Semwal brahmin settled in Mukhba village. For the very reason, they are also the priests of Maa Ganga temple in Mukhba. This temple is the winter seat for the idol of Maa Ganga in Gangotri which is brought here after the closer of Gangotri temple in around Diwali. The idol is brought to Mukhba in procession from Gangotri. On the way, the idol is kept overnight in Markendeya temple, on the banks of Bhagirathi River. On the next day, the idol is brought to Mukhba Maa Ganga temple which will be Her winter abode until Akshya Tirthya day (sometime in early May) when the idol would be taken to Gangotri in procession.

The old wooden Maa Ganga temple with newly constructed annex in Mukhba village.

The new Maa Ganga temple in Mukhba village is almost a replica of Gangotri temple.

The new and old Maa Ganga temple with the background of snow peaks. In this picture I am talking to a person from Semwal family about the temple and village. Photo by K. Srinivasan.

An artistically carved wooden house annexed to old Maa Ganga temple.

Me and KS in front of new Maa Ganga temple.

Most of the houses in Mukhba village is made of Deodhar wood with some artistic carvings. But some of them have become very old and are in depleted conditions. A few houses seem to have been abandoned. These houses actually represent the Garhwali heritage. They look elegant even in depleted conditions.

Mukhba village with wooden houses. The blue sky, the green pine trees on the upper part and the appearance of fall colours on some trees in the middle, lend a colourful decor to the village.

A abandoned wooden building. Probably, it is now being used as a store house.

A wooden house in upper Mukhba village.

View of Dharali village with Mt. Srikantha in the background and Bhagirathi River in foreground.

View of snow-clad mountains with Bhagirathi River from Jaspur village on our way back to Uttarkashi.

We spend about 30 minutes in around Mukhba temple and really felt that if we had the time, we could have strolled in the village. Probably, we would have got some vintage points to shoot the sceneries beside some more pictures in the village. For instance, if we have walked to the upper part of the village, we would have got the view of Maa Ganga temple with beautiful landscape and with the background of full snow-clad mountains. Also, we miss to visit Markendeya temple, 1-km walk from the village with its picturesque location on the banks of Bhagirathi River. The village is also the starting point for day treks like 2-km Thui Top trek, 5-km Nangani Taal trek and 8-km Sattal trek. The village is also the starting point for 12-km 2-day Kyarkoti Bugyal trek.

We commenced our return road journey to Uttarkashi from Mukhba at around 10:30 a.m. and reached Uttarkashi for lunch at Eagle's Nest. We stayed overnight here. Post-lunch, Uttarkashi experienced heavy rains which lasted till late evening.  In the next day, after breakfast, we proceeded to Dehradun in excellent weather conditions.

Ramblings in Uttarkashi District: Part-4 - In Harsil: Trek to Lama Top

October 12, 2022 

We woke up to a knock on the door of our room in Sundar Homestay exactly at 05:30 a.m. It was Shailender, the multi-tasking person of the Homestay, with cups of tea in steel glasses. I had never expected that in mountains, we would get the bed tea so early. Even in Uttarkashi, a big town, we would have to wait for one more hour to get bed tea. I went out to the balcony with my bed tea in hand to observe the weather condition. In the twilight, the weather looked excellent for Lama Top trek which we will be attempting after the breakfast. The sun had risen by now. I went out for a stroll in the Harsil market. With the afternoon rains in the previous day, the upper reaches of the mountains surrounding Harsil seem to have received fresh snow. 

Morning view from Harsil market with fresh snow on the mountains in the background.

Morning view of Mt. Harsil Horns from the garden of Sundar Homestay.

Red apples on the tree with a background of the blue sky in the garden of Sundar Homestay.

Trek to Lama Top (3+3Kms)

I became aware of Lama Top trek only few months back when I was researching on our proposed trip to Harsil. After watching a couple of videos on Lama Top trek, I felt that I must do this trek though it required a 3 kms of almost continuous climb, gaining around 400m in altitude to reach the top.

After finishing the breakfast around 9:00 a.m., we packed our respective backpacks with umbrella, some eatables and 1 litre of water bottle. We walked towards the main gate of Army cantonment to take an exit to the right and crossed the pedestrian iron bridge. The trek to Lama Top starts at the right turn after the bridge. Immediately, we were on a gradual climb which continued until we reached a viewpoint after about 20 minutes.

View of Lama Top from the street of Harsil.

Starting point of Lama Top trek. The right turn at the end of the bridge is the route to Lama top. Photo by K. Srinivasan.

The initial part of the trek goes along Jalandhri River on the right side.

On the Lama trek path.

Some rest in the backdrop of Mt. Harsil Horns.

Harsil Valley with Harsil village seen from the trek route.

The main trek path is well laid thanks to the Jadh Bhotiyas of Bagori village who had done the initial laying down of the trek path to enable them to worship on Lama Top. There are some subsidiary paths and diversions on the initial part of the trek. Eventually, they meet the main trek path after few metres, So, there is not much worry about losing the path. The soft soil on most part of the path covered with dead leaves and dry grass and with almost 45-degree gradient of climb, and similarly ascend on return trek, the chances of slipping on the trek is high. This is especially so if trek path is drenched in rains. 

It had rained in the previous afternoon in Harsil which continued till late evening. Our homestay guys had advised us to avoid trek to Lama Top if the rains continued on the next day. So, I would strongly advise to those who wish to visit Lama top to carry a trekking pole (or wooden stick) and wear shoes with good grip. Also carry some eatables and sufficient water as there is nothing available on the 3-km trek route.

View of Bhagirathi River from the trek route.

Despite steep climbs we faced, the good thing about this trek path is that we came across 3 viewpoints where we could enjoy the sceneries and at the same time get some rest to bring back our breathing to normal. In the entire 3-km of trek, we were the only two persons on the trek. It was only on our return trek we came across a Bengali lady who came with a guide.

From this point, it is a steep climb up to Lama Top.

Note the steepness of the climb from right. Still more to climb.

Looking at the prayer flags and the flat top, I first thought we have reached the Lama Top.

We also took a couple of pictures 

But there was still about 50m of steep climb off the cliff to reach Lama Top.

After a steep ascend of about 20m on narrow stone steps off the rock cliff followed by equally steep climb, again on stone-made steps off the cliff, we reached the Lama Top. It took about 2 hours to cover the 3-km of distance. The first thing we observe on reaching the top was fluttering of hundreds of prayer flags because of the strong breeze. Yet there was no view of Harsil Valley. A climb of one step on a flat rock and standing on it gave virtually 270-degree view of Harsil Valley with Mt. Harsil Horns in the far-end and Harsil and Bagori villages with Bhagirathi River at the base of the Valley. I was looking at my shoes to ensure that I was standing firmly on flat rock to face the strong breeze, and that very moment I also saw the Harsil Valley down below. 

It is interesting to note that in the morning, when I was in Harsil Street, I looked up to see the Lama Top Mountain which stood vertically. Now, I am on Lama Top, and looking down to see Harsil village. What a contrast. Another contrasting feature of the place is that though it is just 3 kms from the hustle-bustle of pilgrims enroute Gangotri and tourists in Harsil, Lama Top is a place for solitude lending a spiritual atmosphere. The pleasure of spending some time in deafening silence except the occasional sound of fluttering prayer flags on Lama Top is more than compensated by the hardship faced in steep climbing for reaching this place.

Lama Top is a worshipping place for the Jadh Bhotiyas living in Bagori village and around. It is a place for them to get their wishes fulfilled. First, they visit praying for their wishes be fulfilled. After their wishes are fulfilled, they visit once again for thanksgiving. At each visit, they host prayer flags as has been the ritual among the Bhotiya Buddhists. 

View of Harsil Valley from Lama Top. Harsil village with Bhagirathi River in the foreground and Mt. Harsil Horns in the background.

Coins imbedded in a dead tree trunk at Lama Top. It is the belief that wishes will be granted for each of the coins embedded.

Influenced by a spiritual feel, I am sitting in a meditation mode on Lama Top.

Video of View from Lama Top

Returned to Bagori village path from Lama Top.

This was the place where Pahadi Wilson's wooden house was located. After a fire destroyed his house, a new house has been constructed by Forest Department as Rest House for visiting Government officials.

After spending about 30 minutes on Lama Top, we commenced our return trek. The weather had turned partly cloudy and the chances of rain showers after some time seems imminent. But the steep descend was also equally difficult in balancing oneself. Still, we could complete our return trek in about 45 minutes without taking any break and viewing sceneries. After reaching, we realised that we had unknowingly taken a different trek route which brought us down to a car parking place on the way to Bagori. So, it can be construed that those living in Bagori would use this trek path for Lama Top while those in Harsil would use the path on which we commenced our trek in the morning.

We returned to our Homestay by 01:00 p.m. After lunch, we had planned to walk 3 kms to Mukhba village to visit Maa Ganga temple and take a walking tour in the village. However, the continuous rains in the afternoon stretching till dusk forced us to abandon the plan.