Vijaydurga - A Lesser Known Temple of Goa

I have visited Goa umpteen times since 1970 for paying obstinance to our kuldevata (family deity) and also attending marriages and other religious functions of my close relatives. During such visits, I have covered most of the tourist places – both popular and lesser known.  Recently, my wife and I visited Goa to attend the thread ceremony of one of our close relatives’ son in Kamakshi temple, Shiroda. It was a two-day function. We had no plan to combine this function with visit to other places except to make a mandatory visit to our family temple, Navdurga in Madkai.

The decision to visit Vijaydurga temple was taken at the spur of the moment when one of my relatives told me about his plan to visit the temple more so because of the serenity and peaceful atmosphere of the place  away from the hustle and bustle of nearby urban places. His description of the single lane road journey of 9 kms from Ponda through secluded dense forest and a serene lake adjunct to the temple interested me more than the ultimate destination. Since we had the free time between 2.00 pm to 5.30 pm, we decided to visit this temple after lunch.

The 22-km route from Shiroda to Keri.

The 22-km car journey from Kamakshi Temple, Shiroda via Ponda took about 45 minutes to reach at the gate of Vijyadurga temple. The last 4-5 kms journey was through ghat section with winding road. The topography of the last 4-5 km of journey gave me an impression that in the night, one may get lost in the pitch-dark road as there are some diversions. And there is no one to guide as the route is almost secluded. There was enough parking space in front gate of the temple. But ours was the only car parked. 

The road to Vijaydurga temple, Keri goes through dense forest.

Vijaydurga temple.  The left staircase leads to a serene lake.

Vijaydurga temple. Note the influence of Portuguese architecture on the façade of the mandap.

My first impression about the Vijaydurga temple was why was this place  chosen to set up this temple and why has the place still remained calm and serene notwithstanding the fact that Goa has seen tremendous developments in the last few years. How did the vicinity of the temple still remain virgin? 

The reasons which I came to know from the website of the temple is that this temple along with Shantadurga temple and Laxmi-Narasinh temple were originally located in Sancoale (now called Sankholi). During the Portuguese rule, these temples (also some other temples in Goa) were destroyed. Some of the devotees took away the idols from the temples and installed in the make-shift temples in then secluded places in around Ponda. The idol of Vijaydurga was installed at Querim (now known as Keri) which is 35 kms away from Sancoale.  The new Vijaydurga temple was constructed in 1560.

Since then, the temple has gone through some renovations as well as new additions. For example. The mandap was added in 1797. The new Deep Stambh (Lamp Tower) was constructed in 1986

The deep stambh (Lamp Tower), a small subsidiary temple, and a tulsi vrindvan in front of the temple. This new Deep Stambh was constructed in 1986.

As one enters the temple complex through the main gate, the first thing that would definitely impress everyone is the silence that pervades here. The saying – ‘sometimes the sound of silence is the most deafening sound of all’ – is aptly applicable to Vijaydurga temple complex. The main reason is that on the one side of the temple has a lake and other three sides are covered with dense forest and hills with almost no human habitat in the vicinity of the temple. The whole temple complex including the temple structures have been kept spick and span.  Being a Durga temple, there would be a large number of devotees visiting the temple during the festivals like Navratri and Mahashivratri.  But I am sure that temple would remain neat and span after the events are over.

Left side view of Vijaydurga temple.

Right side view of the temple. On the left is one of the subsidiary temples constructed with a steep sloping roof with a blend of modern architecture.

Another side view of the temple.

Another point which I noted while taking the round of the temple complex is the blend of classical architecture with the modern architecture. While the main temple with its mandap has the traditional architecture, that of the façade of the mandap leading to the inner sanctum seems to have been influenced by the Portuguese architecture.  There are a couple of subsidiary temples outside the main temple, the construction of which reflects the modern architecture. There are Sabhagraha (Hall for marriage and other social functions for the devotees) and the guest house building (also for those devotees intending to stay overnight) with the modern architecture.

Since the temple is located in a secluded place where one will not find any hotels, restaurants, shops or even dwellings in vicinity of 3-4 kms, I was told that the temple provides simple breakfast, lunch and dinner for which they do not charge, But the devotees can drop their contributions in the box if they wish to contribute. We had tea in their canteen at around 4.00 p.m. before we departed from the temple.

Sabhagrah (left) and overnight staying  rooms (right) for devotees.

Well crafted mahogany wood sofa (minus the foam mattress), probably used for bride and bride groom in the marriage held in the temple.

The building on the left houses guest rooms for the devotees and on the right is  another subsidiary temple with modern architecture.

Since I had already seen the lake adjoining the temple complex while entering the main gate, after finishing the temple round, we went outside the gate to see the lake. To the right side of the gate starts the 50 odd steps going down towards the shore of the lake. Just before that there is an open ground with a small stage probably used for performances during the festivals like Navratri. It is a great setting to watch the performance by the side of the lake. We sat here on a clean bench enjoying the surroundings of the lake which has on its opposite shore the coconut and arecanut orchards and then the hills full of greenery.

There were hundreds of doves fishing in the lakes on the temple side shore   for their food when we had seen them from the temple complex Now. they had gone to the other side of the shore. Probably, sound of our talking may have disturbed the doves and decided to be away from the ‘sound pollution’ created by us. I am sure, if we had come in the morning, we would have the opportunity to watch some more types of birds visiting the lake. The whole setting around the lake is perfect for meditation as it has an aroma of spirituality. 

The main gate of the temple seen from inside the temple complex with a pair of yali stone sculptures.

The lake forms the background to the Vijaydurga temple complex.

The lake.

At the end of the visit, I had an unique experience in which I saw  godliness in the entire temple complex and its vicinity due to the serene settings of the temple.