Ramblings in Uttarkashi District: Part-2 - To Harsil and Bagori Village Walk

October 10, 2022

The morning twilight appeared in Uttarkashi around 05:30 a.m. By 06:15 am, sun rays started falling on the top of the hills. This was the time slot we used for a walk up to Tekhla bridge on Kedarnath road where we would have our first morning tea, spend some time watching the perennial flow of Bhagirathi River from the bridge and the progress of the sun rays covering the hills. We would return to our abode, have some chit-chat with our host, Tilak ji. During this period, he would suggest the breakfast menu which he would personally prepare for us as his cook will come only around 08:30 a.m.

After sumptuous breakfast of Puri-Aloo Subzi with coffee, we commenced our journey to Harsil in a sunny weather at around 09:30 am by Mahindra Maxx which was arranged by Tilak ji (Rs.2200/- for Harsil drop). The 75-km distance to Harsil was covered in about 2 hours 30 minutes with a couple of stops for some photography. The road conditions, by and large, were excellent. The road journey was a climb from an altitude of 1100m in Uttarkashi to 2620m in Harsil.

Khedi waterfalls near Maneri. It is the water discharge from the Maneri Hydroelectric Project from Maneri Dam.

The road to Sukhi Top on the way to Harsil.

Bhagirathi River on the way to Harsil.

A left diversion from Gangotri road and a further drive of about 1 km via army cantonment road took us to Harsil market. From here, it is about 200 km of walk on a paved path (only 2-wheeler can ride on this path)  to reach GMVN. We had got booking for only today as during Chardham Yatra time, GMVN rooms are booked for pilgrims using their conducted tours. For the next two days, we got booking in a homestay very close to GMVN which I will cover in a separate Blog.

As usual for GMVN (also for KMVN), this property is located in a picturesque place on the shore of Bhagirathi River. We had a grand-stand view of the River from the balcony of our cottage. There is also a staircase leading to the shore of the River for those who wish to walk on the river bed.  

We had a simple lunch of rotis with daal and vegetables in GMVN's restaurant after which we proceeded to a walking tour of Bagori village.

GMVN Rest House, Harsil - Photo by K Srinivasan.

Bhagirathi River clicked from our cottage in GMVN, Harsil.

Walking in Bagori Village

One can proceed to Bagori village either from Harsil market or GMVN which is more or less in equal distance of about 400m up to which 4-wheel vehicles can go. Thereafter, one has to walk about another 200m to reach the gate of Bagori village. We walked through Harsil market and took a right turn at the end of the market. We crossed an iron bridge built over Jalandhri River. After crossing two more narrow bridges over streams, we reached the gate of the Bagori village. Eventually, Jalandhri River and two unnamed streams joins Bhagirathi River.

Harsil and its surroundings

On a new iron bridge under construction over Jalandhri River on which 4 wheelers can drive up to the gate of Bagori village once it is opened. The iron bridge visible in the background is the old narrow bridge on which only two-wheeler can pass.

Bagori village gate.

Bagori village has an interesting history. The inhabitants of this village are mostly Jadh Bhotiyas, a semi-nomadic tribe who preferred to settle near Jadh Ganga River. They were originally from high altitude Indo-Tibetan border villages like  Nelong, Jadong etc. Most of them were cross-border traders, selling their products in Tibet for buying mineral salt, wool and sheep etc. In winter, they used to migrate to villages in lower altitudes such as villages near Uttarkashi and Dunda. After the Indo-China war in 1962, the trade with Tibet stopped. They migrated to Bagori, a familiar village for them which was on a trade route to Tibet beside being on the pilgrimage route to Gangotri. Even now, in winter, they migrate from Bagori to Uttarkashi and Dunda. 

Since Jadh Bhotiyas were originally the inhabitants of the Indo-Tibetan border villages, some influences of the Tibetan culture are very much in evidence like their costumes, the use of prayer flags, the food habits etc. Most of the Jadh Bhotiyas of Bagori follow Hindu religious practices. If I go by some displays, they had recently celebrated Navratri and Dussehra. Probably they would be celebrating Diwali also. This village has set good example of intermingling of Buddhist culture with Hindu religious activities and vice versa. 

Since the winter had not yet started and the apple season is in full swing, almost all the houses in Bagori are occupied. A feature I have noticed of Bagori is that houses are constructed in rows on both sides of the paved street which are mostly made up of Deodhar wood with some carvings. It appears that most of Bhotiyas preferred wood houses with carvings as I had witnessed such Bhotiya houses in villages of Darma, Mana and Niti valleys. Most of the apple orchards and agricultural farms are located on the backside of the houses. It appears that Jadh Bhotiyas had followed some system in village planning.

The board detailing the history of Bagori village.

One of the many Deodhar wood houses with carvings.

The intricate wood carving in a Bagori home.

The contrast - A house made up of Deodhar wood on the right and a newly constructed house with cement bricks on the left.

A well wood carved 'Nelong Homestay' in Bagori village. The homestay was closed.

The main vocations in Bagori village are growing apples and Rajma as cash crops, handcrafts, producing wool items like shawls, gloves, mufflers, coats etc which are displayed outside their houses for sale. While KS bought a necklace and earrings, I bought a small shoulder bag. We also bought fresh apples - both red and green @ Rs.50/- per kg. which we consumed during our day trekking. The apples were sweet, crispy and juicy.

Walking on the main pathway in Bagori village which is of 1 km distance.

A Buddhist temple in Bagori. Just across the street is a Hindu temple of Laal Devta

Wood crafted artifacts on display with windmill.

Apple crates waiting to be loaded on minivan for onward transportation on highway in trucks.

KS tasting the Bagori apple which we bought in the village.

A street scene in Harsil in the evening. Only KS and I were on the street.

Harsil market and taxi stand. In the background is Lama Top.

After about 1 hour of walking trip in Bagori village, we headed back to Harsil market which has some attractive looking houses with paintings. There were not many tourists on the streets. In the evening, we arranged for the next day's trip to Bhaironghati for Gartang Gali trek, thereafter to Gangotri and back to Harsil. More about this part of our trip in the next Blog.