Monday, July 12, 2010

Trek to Nanda Devi Outer Sanctuary (Dharansi Pass) - June 2010

Back in Joshimath from Kuari Pass Trek

Our unscheduled stay at Joshimath ostensibly to be present at the time of getting NDOS permit, was a blessing in disguise as it provided the required rest in the comfort of the hotel room after a continuous steep descend from Khullara to Dhak. At least our calf muscles and toes recovered from nagging pain. In the evening, we went to Grand Adventure's Office to access internet for mails where I noticed that most of the visitors to the office looking for some trekking assignments appears to be bhotias. This was not surprising as Joshimath and its neighbouring villages have sizeable population of bhotias due to its proximity to bhotia dominated villages in Niti Valley.

Our guide, Sonu's Parasari village, 7 kms from Joshimath on Malari road.

But what came as news to me was that there were many bhotia people who had migrated from Johar Valley and made Joshimath and its neighbourhood villages as their permanent homes. As I learnt later, Sonu’s grandfather migrated from Munsiary many years back and settled in Parasari village, 7 kms from Joshimath towards Badagaon. Similarly, forefathers of Rajendra Singh (Raju), MD of Grand Adventures belonged to Martoli. I will not be surprised if many of his staff as also the staff of trekking agencies in Joshimath have lineage from Johar Valley.

But why Johar bhotias chose villages around Joshimath for settlement ? The answers lie in the fact that prior to 1962, Johar bhotias used to regularly travel to Malari from Milam via Untadhura for business and in that process over a period of time they developed family ties with bhotias of Niti Valley. It is also said that many Johar bhotias had grazing rights in around Malari. Post 1962 Chinese war made the movement on Milam-Malari route almost impossible. Also many bhotias of Johar valley were in search of alternative employment as their flourishing business with Tibet came to a halt with the Chinese war of 1962. The family ties with Niti Valley and also the relatively better employment opportunity in around Joshimath due to it being on the pilgrimage route ( Badrinath and Hemkund) made some of Johar Valley bhotias to migrate to in around Joshimath villages. Lastly, the bliss giving goddess Nanda Devi seems to be the another common bonding factor between bhotias of Johar and Niti valley.

Permit for NDOS

Entry into NDOS is restricted to not more than 5 persons per day subject to not more than 20 persons per week. For NDOS permit, we were required to give one photograph along a copy of the photo identity card as such PAN Card, Voters’ Card, Driving Licence. Since we were in the age group of 60 years plus, as advised by Sonu, we got Medical Fitness Certificate from our doctors as sometime DFO asks for the same. The entry fee for NDOS was recently raised by nearly 4-folds from Rs.40/- per head to Rs.150/- per head. The Trail Management Fee was also similarly raised. The total amount paid for our group of 6 persons (2+4 guide/porters) came to a whooping Rs.1760/- as against Rs.380/-paid for for Kuari Pass. To me it looked anomalous to charge Rs.450/-for 3 porters as Trail Management Fee. They all belonged to Lata village, which is a part of NDOS and it was not fair to charge them for moving inside their own territory. One of the interesting conditions of the NDOS permit was that the group must choose one homestay either at Lata summer village or at Tolma. Camping is not permitted in Lata and Tolma villages.

Google Earth image of our trek route as tracked by GPS. Photo courtsey: K. Srinivasan.

Joshimath-Lata-Lata summer village (2370m) [25 kms by Jeep+1.5 km by trek]

Sonu arrived with a jeep around 10.00 a.m. at our hotel and soon we were on the road to Lata. It was a bit warm as was expected during this month. As we were driving through Badagaon towards Dhak, Bethartholi Himal was partially visible to our left and as we drove further, Nanda Devi made her appearance. We stopped briefly to take quick photographs of these two peaks. The serenity of the place with these peaks looming large over Dhauliganga valley was marred by heaps of stones and mud spread over a part of Tapovan village due to the construction of a barrage and tunnels as part of hydro-electric power project. We took a tea break at Tapovan village with Dunagiri standing tall over it giving an impression of a protector of Tapovan. Incidentally, Dunagiri peak was our constant companion throughout this trek and I was reminded of a line from a popular Hindi film song of 70s: Jahan jayiyega wahan payiyega ( whereever you go, there you will find me). We passed Reni village where Rishiganga meets Dhauliganga. The village was made famous by Gaura Devi of Chipko movement.

Bethartoli Himal from Joshimath-Malari Road between Badagaon and Dhak.

A zoom shot of Nanda Devi from Joshimath-Malari Road near Dhak.


Dunagiri from Tapovan village.

We reached Lata road head just around noon. Raghuveer Singh introduced himself and his two porters one of which was his son Prem Singh who was cricket crazy. As I noted later, he used to suddenly burst into commentary in Hindi of some imaginary cricket matches between India and Pakistan or Sri Lanka ( in the background of Asia Cup matches) in which India will always win tosses, other teams will drop catches, umpires will reject appeals for LBW against Indian batsmans and finally India wins matches. He was very sorry for Mumbai Indian losing IPL title only because he was an ardent fan of Sachin Tendulkar he hated to see Sachin losing the match.

Starting point of the trek from Lata road head.

Lata winter village located by the side of the road looked sleepy as compared with other villages on this road. As we came to know later, apparently, most of the villagers have shifted to Lata summer village located about 1.5 km up. We commenced our walk on the cemented path through the terraced fields as the porters were arranging the loads. It was very warm day and we had to guzzle lots of water during our 1.5 kms of climb. It took nearly one hour to reach the periphery of the village lined up with apple, apricot and walnut orchards. A further 200m of walk through narrow alleys took us to Raghuveer’s house. We were ushered into a small room which was to be our home-stay for the night.

The alternative zigzag shorter but steeper path to Lata summer village which is mostly used by villagers.


One of the colourful houses in Lata summer village where post office is located.

The room, though small with two beds looked far better than rooms of our home stays in Darma valley last year. The wooden walls were nicely covered with huge colour posters depicting the Himalayan peaks, valleys and rivers. The toilet and bathroom were located at a lower ground. There were easy chairs kept in the veranda for relaxation. The house had electricity which was almost uninterrupted except for a brief time in the night. All in all, the room looked a neat place to spend a comfortable night. It did not take much time for us to gauge as to why the guest room has been nicely maintained. Raghuveer Singh has been the host to many VIPs in this room as he showed us his diary in which many visitors had recorded their commendations on their stay in his house. Harish Kapadia stayed in the very same room in in June 2001 on his way to Nanda Devi Inner Sanctuary as leader of the IMF sponsored expedition. Sonu Nigam ( Bollywood playback singer) and his wife too stayed in the same room in May 2006 on their visit to Lata Kharak-Saini Kharak. Then there were many high ranking government officials who stayed in this room. By the way, Raghuiveer Singh was recommended by Rajkumar for any type of assistance we may need in Lata summer village.

Nanda Devi Temple at Lata summer village.....

...and the Nanda Devi diety inside the temple.

Raghuveer Singh is in his early 50s and an expert on Nanda Devi Sanctuary as I noted while having a long chat with him during our post-lunch tete-e-tete. He recalled the pre-1982 period when hordes of visitors come to Lata during May-October as part of trekking and expedition groups and most of the male members of Lata village would be accompanying such groups as porters/cooks/guides. Sometime porters were required to be hired from adjoining villages such as Tolma to meet the increased demands during the peak season. Those were the days when porters used to earn sizeable income. With the closure of the sanctuary in 1982, cash-flow streams of the villagers were severally affected forcing them to migrate to adjoining towns for employment. Those who were educated have permanently migrated to cities and now most of inhabitants of the Lata village are old folks and children.

I got an impression from the Raghuveer Singh that villagers are not happy with a blanket ban on trekking and expeditions to inner sanctuary. They feel that a limited number of treks and expeditions can be permitted in inner sanctuary to provide employment opportunity to locals. They are also resentful of a ban on their movements in inner and outer sanctuary as they feel that it is their legitimate right to freely move in the sanctuary. I read a pahadi saying in one of the articles on this issue in a book given to me by Raghuveer Singh for reading which was apt. The saying goes like this in Hindi :

Jade mein pale ki akkadh dhup aane tak.

Aur Baratiyon ki yainth bhat khane tak.

English transliteration : In winter, frosts show their might until sun come out. Marriage guests show their ego until they eat rice.

In his view, regular movements of villagers in the sanctuary would prevent illegal poaching activities in the sanctuary. He says that Lata villagers have lot of respect for maintaining the sanctity of Nanda Devi sanctuary and they will not indulge in activities which bring bad name to their village.

In the evening, Raghuveer Singh took us for a stroll in the village starting with Nanda Devi temple. He prayed on our behalf for the successful completion of our trek. . The temple complex has been renovated and a 5-room guest house has been constructed. Lata summer village has about 80 houses spill over two major settlements. The higher caste villagers stay in around the Nanda Devi temple while the lower caste villagers stay about 500m further towards Bhelta side. Raghuveer Singh tells me that the bifurcation is a legacy from the past and maintains that there is free movements of villagers from both the sides.

After an early dinner of local fares, we retired for the night. There was no need to use sleeping bags as weather was pleasant.

Artifacts on show inside Nanda Devi temple complex.


A part of Lata summer village located about 500m away from the main settlement. The path in the background goes to Bhelta.


The1.5 km trek path from Lata road head to Lata summer village.

Lata Summer Village-Bhelta (2840m) [4 kms trek]

While in Joshimath, we had a second thought on attempting Lata-Lata Kharak trek in a single day as an altitude gain of about 1500m in a single day in 9 kms of trek could be tiresome apart from altitude related problem. Hence we decided, in consultation with Sonu to do this stretch of trek in two days by camping at Bhelta. But a final call was to be taken at Lata after taking into account the suitability of place for camping and availability of water source. Raghuveer Singh confirmed that there was a perennial water source just 200m above Bhelta and a cave could accommodate porters and guide apart from acting as a make-shift kitchen. Raghuveer Singh also suggested to Sonu to leave the kitchen tent at Lata as this may not be needed any more due to availability of log huts at Lata Kharak which could be our base for trek to Saini Kharak and Jhandidar/Dharansi Pass. He also suggested that we leave much of provisions in Lata which he would carry with him the next day when he comes to Lata Kharak.

Ready for departure to Bhelta at Raghuveer's house.

After readjusting the loads as suggested by Raghuveer Singh, we left Lata summer village at 8.15 a.m. with two porters who had now light weights on their back. After walking over the cemented path for about one km, we were out of the village boundary from where a moderate climb over a well- trodden path followed by somewhat steeper climb on loose stones and scree started. The cloudy weather with sun making intermittent appearance and the dense forest cover of pines and walnut trees made the walk pleasurable.

River Dhauliganga seen from Lata summer village.

First the easy walk through pine forest.....

...then started the walk on rocks and stones until Bhelta.

It was only when we reached on an intermediate ridge we saw the magnitude of the dense forest cover. The views of Lata village, its terraced fields sloping down to the bank of Dhauliganga with Tapovan village in the background were superb. It took us about 3 hours to reach Bhelta campsite as we spent lots of time in taking pictures of many wildflowers on the way thanks to Sonu who made sure that we heard his observations about these flowers and take pictures of the same. [ For more details and pictures of wildflowers click on http://sadanandsafar.blogspot.com/2010/07/wild-flowers-of-nanda-devi-outer.html ]. Also there were wild strawberries all the way to Bhelta some of which we collected and ate on the way. There were many herbal plants which had medicinal value and were being used by villagers to overcome many common ailments such as cold, indigestion.

One of the many wildflowers we came across on Bhelta route.

Bhelta campsite is a small patch of flat ground located on either sides of the stone-filled trek path. From a distance of 100m or so, it was difficult to comprehend that this would be a camping site as thick growth of vegetations surrounding the campsite, thanks to almost daily afternoon/evening rains, camouflaged the place. A protruding rock over the ground acted as a natural cave where our kitchen was set up with sufficient resting space for 3 porters/guide. The place was not great from the scenic point of view but the availability of water some 200m aheadwas the only reason for this campsite. In fact, the water supply to the entire Lata village is provided by Bhelta stream through pipes.

Bhelta campsite. In the background the the cave.

The rains started in right earnest as we finished our lunch of Vegetable Pulao. The rain continued till about 5.00 p.m bringing down the temperature to 9C by evening. According to Sonu, a steep drop in temperature in the evening and night is a good sign of a clear weather the next day morning. And we observed his prediction coming out true almost all days. As usual, dinner was taken early before the light faded . KS was happy that his wish of having dry bhindi (Okra) masala was fulfilled by Sonu.

Bhelta-Lata Kharak (3790m) [5 kms trek]

We woke up to a clear blue sky as predicted by Sonu last eveing. The impending steep climb of 5 kms with a altitude gain of nearly 1000m wavered in our mind as we were finishing breakfast. I was having an allergic cold with my right nostril blocked. We were keen that we reach Lata Kharak around noon to avoid rains which, during last few days, had become routine affairs in the afternoon. So we started from Bhelta at 7.15 a.m. After a moderate climb of about one km on a stony path through pine forest, the tougher climb was waiting for us. A diversion to the left goes to the Khanook Kharak campsite which has been used as an alternative to Bhelta. However, the scarcity of water at Khanook Kharak has made the trekking groups to avoid this campsite.

River Dhauliganga gets smaller as we climb up.

Our steep climb continued on a short zigzag path of loose stones and pebbles. As we gained height, I was finding difficult to climb in my normal pace as my blocked right nostril made me to take frequent breaks to regain my normal breathing. Again this route was full of rare wildflowers and herbal plants. This gave me lots of needed break as I spent time in taking pictures of wildflowers. The shorter zigzag steep climbs were replaced by longer zigzag climbs but with lesser forest cover mostly of pine and birch trees. As soon as I saw some open trek path ahead of me, a sense of premonition came to my mind that we were nearing Lata Kharak but this was not be as we were again in the deep forest. As we reached a small plateau, I saw a deep Dhauliganga valley and Lata villages – both winter and summer villages with its cemented path looking like a white line drawn on a Google earth map. As I was admiring the scenery I was not aware that behind me a roof of a wooden structure was visible. As I turned back to continue the trek, I saw KS waving his hands some 200m above the cliff top to indicate that we have reached Lata Kharak. It was 12 noon when I reached the top. ‘What an awesome place’ was my first reaction about Lata Kharak. After about 15 minutes, Raghuveer Singh reached Lata Kharak with loads which we had left in Lata summer village. He had started from Lata at 9.00 a.m. and made to Lata Kharak with loads in 3 hours and 15 minutes - a commendable feat for a man in his early 50s.

One of many wildflowers enroute Lata Kharak.


At last just 50m short of Lata Kharak log hut.

Lata Kharak is situated on a table top surrounded from all sides by high mountains. Two important features of Lata Kharak topography are : firstly, even at an altitude of 3800m, it is located almost on tree line - a thick forest of birch and rhododendron trees. Second, we are in wilderness yet we are just 10 kms from the road head and we get fairly good BSNL signal . On the south-west side is the Dhauliganga valley from where our climb started. Further left to the Dhauliganga valley is the Rishiganga gorge followed by Ronti nala. On the south side, we could see our trekking route - Gorson bugyal-Talli-Khullara-Kuari Pass and a part of descend to Dhak road head. A small ridge connects Lata Kharak with Saini Kharak and Jhandidar. On the north-eastern side, the prominent peak visible is Dunagiri and some distanced peaks on the Indo-Tibet border. The closest peaks to see from Lata Kharak are Bethartoli Himal, Nanda Ghunti (south face), Ronti, and Hathi Parvat . Nanda Devi, Devisthan I and II peaks are not visible from Lata Kharak as their views are blocked by Jhandidar ridge. These peaks can be viewed only from Saini Kharak. I was immediately in love this place and was happy that we were going to spend three nights in this serene place.

View from Lata Kharak of some distance peaks on Indo-Tibet border.

As we were taking lunch in the log hut at around 1.30 p.m., it started raining with gusty winds. Soon it transformed into hail storm which continued till about 4.00 p.m. Although rain stopped, the sky remained cloudy and strong wind continued to hammer the place. This brought down the temperature to as low as 4C. The jawans of Gorkha Regiments who were occupying the remaining three huts were now in their full winter wear with astronaut look. These jawans were a part of a 25 member Trishul-I Expedition Team of which 17 members finally made it to the peak successfully. Unfortunately, due to 24 hour snow blizzard on June 8, 3 of its members lost the path in the white wash while descending from the peak and were found missing. After many helicopter sorties, there dead bodies were found near Camp-3. A rescue team was sent to Camp-3 to retrieve the dead bodies but due to bad weather they could not proceed beyond Camp-2. Till our return from Lata Kharak on June 20, the bad weather prevented the rescue team to trek to Camp-3 to bring the dead bodies to Camp-2. One of the jawans who accompanied the team upto Camp-3, told me that it would take a minimum of 10 hours for the rescue team to trek to Camp-3, pick up the dead bodies and trek back to camp-2 from where the helicopter will bring them to the Joshimath Army base.

A team of jawans with supporting staff were also stationed at Dharansi campsite which served as back-up base for the stores and provisions for the expedition. As stated earlier, there was already scarcity of water in Dharansi and in these circumstances, Sonu had earlier suggested a day trek to Dharansi Pass and back to Lata Kharak. So we were to spend three nights in Lata Kharak which was not a bad option as log huts were better insulated against the cold wind than the tents. As we realised later after return from Jhandidar, Lata Kharak was a more serene place to camp than Jhandidar or Dharansi.

Sunrise view of Hathi Parvat (west face) from Lata Kharak and....

....Bethartoli Himal.

Lata Kharak-Saini Kharak (3885m)-Lata Kharak [3+3 kms trek]

We woke up at 5.00 a.m. to capture the sunrise view on Bethartoli Himal, Ronti and Hathi Parvat and were a bit disappointed as a thin layer of mist partly covered these peaks. But soon the mist was evaporated as sun rose and we had a good sunrise view of these peaks. After taking pictures of these peaks, we had a quick breakfast as we were keen to visit Saini Kharak early to get clear peak views.

Nanda Ghunti (west face partly visible) and Ronti peaks from Lata Kharak.

Peak view from Lata Kharak. Bethartoli Himal on left and Ronti on the right.

We started for Saini Kharak at 6.30 a.m. with Sonu and Raghuveer Singh accompanying us. After about 1 km of moderate climb on the narrow path through the pasture ground covered with tall grasses, we reached a ‘T’ junction point. Here the path to the left goes to Jhandidar while the straight path goes towards Saini Kharak as was told to me by Raghuveer Singh. The climb continued until we reached the top of the Saini Kharak ridge (3970m). For the first time, we could see Devisthan I and II from this point. From here, it was alternate gradual descend and climbs through mound of rocks, boulders and stone slabs most of which were loose. We were to be extra careful as there were with steep slopes on both sides of the ridge.

Devisthan II & I from Saini Kharak.

Bethartoli Himal from Saini Kharak.


Bethartoli Himal with its ridge on the right which connects to Trishul (not visible.)

At last we reached a small grassy patch where we could at least stand and watch the peaks without worrying too much about balancing ourselves on the rocks. Bethartoli Himal, Nanda Ghunti (south face) and Ronti could be seen now much closer than in Lata Kharak. We had to walk another 200m or so, again on rocky patch to see the full face of Devisthan I and II and Nanda Devi. The weather was excellent with cloudless sky. We spent about one hour taking pictures, admiring the grandeur of high mountains and Rishiganga gorge while Sonu and Raghuveer Singh went one km ahead to see whether more peaks could be seen from the place. The answer was negative as they came back.

KS with his Cannon DSLR on tipod at Saini Kharak ridge.


Rishiganga gorge seen from Saini Kharak.

Nanda Devi from Saini Kharak.

During this 3 km trek, Raghuveer Singh was in great mood to apprise me about the trek route to Jhandidar and Dharansi, the difficulties of walking on the narrow rock cut path of about 1 km with vertical exposure at Satkhula (seven valleys) towards Dharansi camp site where Gorkha Regiment has fixed a rope on the exposed side to enable their expedition team to cross the path with the support of the rope, the varieties of herbal plants on this route and their use by the villagers as medicines, how Sonu Nigam sang his one of his famous songs sitting on the Saini Kharak ridge to get an echo of the song etc.etc... That he could talk non-stop while climbing and simultaneously collecting some herbal plants on the way and also cautioning me about loose rocks was a testimony to his stamina and his capability of performing multiple tasks. I, on the other hand, was not in a position to respond to him or raise queries on his commentaries as the climb and balancing act on the rocks left me almost breathless.

In the lap of Saini Kharak with peaks and Rishiganga gorge in the background.

Nanda Devi (left) and Devisthan II & I on the right from Saini Kharak.

We returned to Lata Kharak by 10.15 a.m. We had thought of a revisit to Saini Kharak in the afternoon to take pictures of Nanda Devi as sun rays reflecting on its south face will make the picture perfect. But the cloudy sky with high winds in the afternoon dampened our spirit for a revisit. As KS was resting in the afternoon, I went to Sonu to get some more information about Satkhula rock cut path with a vertical exposure to a deep valley as it was news to me from Raghuveer Singh while our way to Saini Kharak that there existed a rock cut path on way to Dharansi campsite. My discussion was more in academic nature as we were not going beyond Dharansi Pass. He said that while it was risky to some extent, any one with proper precaution such as walking slowly keeping an eye on the path while taking the hand support from the cliff side could cross this 1 km path without much difficulties. But thing was different for those who were afraid heights.

On way to Lata Kharak from Saini Kharak.

Raghuveer Singh with his collection of herbs on Saini Kharak route.

In this context, Sonu recalled leading a small french group to Dharansi campsite in July 2005. While the group walked on the Satkhula rock-cut path without realising that there existed a vertical exposure to the deep valley as the valley was covered with mist, it was towards the end of the rock-cut path when mist was lifted out of the valley that group realised the gravity of the such a walk. One of the group member who seemed to suffer from acrophobia, told Sonu empathetically that he was not going to walk on the rock-cut path anymore and he will have to take him to Tolma from an alternate path. Apparently, there was no alternative path to Tolma he walked on the rock-cut path the next day at snail's pace with the support of two porters, one leading him from the front holding his hand while the other from the back, holding his other hand.

Lata Kharak log hut. In the background is the Jhandidar ridge. Dunagiri was fully covered by the cloud.

Sunset view of Dunagiri peak from Lata Kharak log hut.

Lata Kharak-Jhandidar (4210m) -Dharansi & back [5+5 kms trek]

Today, we had once again an excellent sunrise views of peaks and they looked even better than the last morning. So we were tempted to take the pictures of sunrise views of Bethartoli Himal and Nanda Ghunti/Ronti peaks. In the Himalaya, even on the same place, each day bestows different scenes of nature and one is not tired of viewing the same thing again and again.

Morning view of Bethartoli Himal from Lata Kharak log hut.


Morning view of Nanda Ghunti and Ronti peaks from Lata Kharak log hut.

After an early breakfast, we left Lata Kharak at 7.00 a.m. for Dharansi Pass. At first, KS was not very keen to do this trek not because of tiredness or any other physical problem. He was so overwhelmed by the peak views from Lata Kharak and Saini Kharak that he did not feel that we could get better view of peaks any more. I guess his statement was more of an expression of satisfaction of what he had seen so far than for not joining the Dharansi pass trek. Each place in the Himalaya gives a different perspective of nature. Even on cloudy days while we may not see peaks, the forests, the meadows, the valleys, the wildflowers show different colours. There was no need me to tell all these observations to KS as he was ready for the trek with Sonu and Raghuveer Singh.

Lata Kharak (3790m) seen from the way to Jhandidar. Note on the right the ending of tree lines.

The first one km of trek route was the same we had covered a day before for Saini Kharak after which a diversion to the left with a gradual climb ended on a small ridge. The Ronti Nala gorge can be seen only from this ridge. After the ridge, it was more or less a level walk on stony path with a gradual slope on the right which ends at Lata Kharak. The slopes were full of dwarf rhododendron plants. We saw a pair of wild fowls strolling through dwarf rhododendron plants. After one km of a steep climb over the loose stones and slabs, we reached the cairns signalling our arrival at Jhandidar tri-junction.

A rhododendron flower in the background of Hathi parvat on way to Jhandidar.


On way to Jhandidar.

There was some thrill in reaching Jhandidar as many peaks which were eclipsed by Jhandidar ridge were suddenly visible. The massive Dunagiri was within our handshake distance metaphorically. I never realised that Dunagiri had such a wide base with snow cover all the way from peak to the base. In fact it was difficult to see Dunagiri with bear eyes as sun rays reflected strongly on the snow. We could also see Hathi and Ghodi peaks in different perspectives. As a further bonus, we saw the top portion of Chaukhambha. Jhandidar top was full of stone slabs littered all over the place. In fact, the campsite was made of some evenly spread stone slabs. The water source which was just below the Jhandidar ridge was almost dried up as we could see only drops of water coming out from the source. We had our packed lunch break at Jhandidar before we proceeded to Dharansi Pass.

Hathi parvat through Jhandidar cairns (4210m).


Jhandidar tri-junction indicator.

The closest view of Dunagiri from Jhandidar.

The Jhandidar is a tri-junction of paths coming from Lata Kharak, Tolma and Dharansi Pass. The path to the left goes to Tolma and while more or less straight path with curvature to the right goes to Dharansi Pass. Both these paths are full of rocks and boulders. The landscape on Dharansi route, more or less, resembled that of Baguabasa on Roopkund route. The trek route to Dharansi was filled with loose rocks and slabs. The extent of loose stone slabs can be judged by the big noises they made when walking over them. As we proceeded, it was no longer a walk but jumping and hopping from one boulder to another. This went on for another km after which we felt that there was a high risk of our losing balance while jumping if we continued walking on such a horrendous path. There was also the danger of getting our ankles twisted from a wrong step which would have made walking difficult even on a plain path. Dharansi Pass was hardly 1.5 km ahead when we decided not to proceed further and return to Lata Kharak. Sonu and Raghuveer did not press for continuing the trek as they too must have felt that the trek path was too risky for us. The only reward we got from 2 kms of treacherous trek was the grand view of shining Lampak-II peak.

Hathi and Ghodi peaks with different perspectives from Jhandidar.

A group of villagers coming from Dharansi met us on the Jhandidar tri-junction.

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Lampak II peak seen on way to Dharansi pass.

It was rocks and boulders all the way on route to Dharansi. Photo courtesy: K Srinivasan.

We returned from this point though Dharansi Pass ( below the hump) was about 1.5 kms from here.

By the time we returned to Jhandidar, most of the peaks were covered with clouds and mist. Since it was mostly descend after Jhandidar, we reached Lata Kharak in one hour. Jhandidar ridge was now covered with mist though it was still sunny in Lata Kharak. While we were near Lata Kharak, Raghuveer Singh revealed that Nathu Singh, a porter who had accompanied Bill Aitken, the author of book The Nanda Devi Affair and many other travel books, on his treks to Nanda Devi Inner Sanctuary in 1980 and also on other treks, was in our camp for carrying out repairs to the roof of pre-fabricated hut annexed the log hut. Since I had seen his picture in the Bill Aitken’s book, I recognised him as I entered the camp where he was relaxing after completion of some cementing work. After exchanging pleasantry, I asked him what was in his mind when he carried Bill Aitken on his shoulder to cross a torrent of stream near Dibrugheta. I was expecting a macho type of answer but instead he just smiled shyly without giving any answer. The only information he voluntarily revealed was that whenever Bill Aitken passed though Lata, he would enquired about him . “ On one occasion Bill Aitken enquired about me with myself without recognising me” he told me again with a shy smile.

Returning from Dharansi path.

Ronti Nala seen from a ridge connecting Jhandidar and Lata Kharak.

With Nathu Singh at Lata Kharak.

Lata Kharak-Tolma-Suraithota-Joshimath [ 13 kms trek+30kms by Jeep]

The overnight rains which continued till about 4.00 a.m gave us some anxious moment. Had the rain continued in the morning, we would have to drop the idea of using the jungle route to Tolma. Perhaps we would have been force to use Lata route for the road head. Luckily, weather turned fine and sunny as we were getting ready for departure. Because of the jungle route, Sonu advised us to walk together as the route was not marked and there were many sideways within the jungle.

After taking leave of jawans of the Gorkha Regiment, we left Lata Kharak at 7.30.am. The entrance to the jungle started right behind the log hut annex. The first 200m of narrow zigzag path under the cover of rhododendron trees was comparatively smooth. But as we proceeded further, the walking become more difficult as path was strewn with loose stones and roots of rhododendron trees. At many places, the extended tree trunks and branches at various heights were to be carefully negotiated. In some places, the path was broken making it mandatory to take the support of tree branches to jump to the other side of the path. As we move further, the walking even on the plain path become risky as the heaps of accumulated rain-soaked leaves camouflaged the drops. It was one of such drops that Sonu went knee deep and had to be pulled out by Raghuveer Singh. Sonu on the front and Raghuveer Singh in the back made sure that we placed our feet at the right place for for avoiding skidding and at the same time keeping a watch from the backside to see that we were not entangled in roots or hitting our heads to extended branches while walking.


This Himalayan blue poppy gave us some respite from jungle trek.

After about 3 kms of such a dreadful walk, we were out of the jungle and felt relieved thinking that the worst was over. But it was not to be. The climb and descend over a narrow path, barely sufficient to keep one foot at a time with exposure to the steep slope on the other side was the most frightening as there was nothing to hold on except to grab the overgrown grass on the cliff side for support. Raghuveer Singh was giving me a moral support reminding me that he was behind to take care of me and directed me to hold the grass for support as it will not come out. That was true as not even a single piece of grass came out while I grabbed them. This ordeal was over in about 20 minutes and now we were on a ridge which joined the main trekking path coming from Jhandidar and going towards Tolma. After a steep descend through the forest, we reached Kadwi Chound for a lunch break. Thereafter, it was descend all the way to Tolma. Just before Tolma, Raghuveer Singh took us on a small diversion through the terraced fields to show us what he claimed to be the world’s second largest oak tree. The trunk of the tree was so wide that six of us could not fully cover it.

Kadwa Chound campsite on way to Tolma.


The second largest Cedar tree of the world at Tolma according to Raghuveer Singh.


A house in Tolma village.

From Tolma, 3 kms of descend on a wide path led us to the road head at Suraithota. Within 15 minutes, we got an empty jeep to take us to Joshimath. We bid good bye to Raghuveer Singh and other two porters at Lata. We tipped them handsomely. Raghuveer Singh initially refused to take the tip but on my insistence he reluctantly accepted the same saying that if we could send more trekkers to Lata, that would have been his greatest tip. We reached Joshimath at 3.30 p.m.


Suraithota village on the road side .

NDOS trek, though demanding, is not a difficult one, surely for younger lots. Despite the hardship of steep climbs and treacherous trek paths on some places, we enjoyed this trek much more than Kuari Pass trek. The views of numerous snow peaks, the deep valleys and gorges, high mountains, the dense forest, the wild flowers and herbal plants coupled with excellent weather conditions, a team of knowledgeable and caring guide and porters blended very well in this trek. This has prompted me to think of doing trek in other part of NDOS - the Bagini Glacier trek. But this requires a call from the mountains.

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11 comments:

swamiji atmanandji from himalayas said...

thanks for article, great pictures of my birth place sweet uttarakhand,still unspoiled natural beauty in earth.

with love and light:

swamiji girimaharaji from scandinavia.

Prashant Joshi said...

I have a complaint to make. Your posts are very distracting :-(((

Now i feel like packing my bags and rushing towards kumaon and garhwal once again ... boo hoo hoooo :-(((

Sadanand Kamath said...

That's my 'complaint' too about your pictorial blog on Himkhola. Must provide for Himkhola in 2011 slots. KS is ever ready for this trek.

Apex Instruments Co. said...

would you please provide the contact no of your guide. great article, exellent photography. Congratulation.
Pijush Roychowdhury, Kolkata

Sadanand Kamath said...

@Pijush, thanks for appreciating the trek blog and pictures.

The guide name is Sohan Singh Bisht. His Cell No is 09410365281.

thegreenogre said...

Your blog is fascinating! Makes me want to go to the Himalayas all over again!

navjot said...

hello sir,
i am from delhi and am planning a trip with my friend to nanda devi biosphere.. could u suggest some four day trek.. it cud be hard as both of us are in the armed forces..regards, nsbhinder nsbhinder2000@rediff.com

Sadanand Kamath said...

@Navjot you may do NDOS trek - Joshimath-Lata-Lata Kharak(Day-1), Lata Kharak-Saini Kharak- Lata Kharak (Day-2), Lata-Kharak-Jhandidar-Dharansi Pass (Day-3) Dharansi-Jhandidar (Day-4), Jhandidar-Tolma-Joshimath (Day-5).

जाट देवता (संदीप पवाँर) said...

अपने जैसे सिरफ़िरे मिल गये है आज तो।

kavinder koshyari said...

The most detailed live and lovely description. For a moment I thought as if I am on this way.

Mohan Bhuyan (1988) said...

Sadanandji, your blog is my go-to site any time I want to go to the hills, either for a trek or just a drive. Thanks very much for this wealth of information and all the pictures; I have bookmarked and archived your blog permanently!

Is it possible for you to share contact details of Raghuveer Singh at Lata? I want to follow your footsteps to Lata Kharak, Saini Kharak and Dharansi Pass at the end of September, 2015.

Many thanks,

Mohan Bhuyan
Noida